Showing posts with label cars. Show all posts
Showing posts with label cars. Show all posts

Tuesday, December 09, 2008

6 Steps For Jump Starting a Car

When your car's battery dies or loses its ability to crank the engine, you may need someone to give it a jump start. Doing so can provide your battery with the current it needs to turn the engine over and start your car. But, jump starting a car can be dangerous because of the hydrogen gas and acid contained within the battery. If it explodes, it can cause serious injury. Unfortunately, many car owners approach jump starting haphazardly and take it for granted. Below, I'll give you 6 tips and precautions that you should use to protect you and your car.

#1: Line 'Em Up

Align your cars in a way that places each car's battery as close to the other as possible. Then, place both cars in "Park". Also, make sure that the cars are not touching each other. The current can travel through the hull, potentially causing damage and injury.

#2: Know Your Signs

Car batteries have a positive post and a negative post. How those posts are connected to the cables is important. Before connecting anything, familiarize yourself with which post is which.

#3: Know Your Connections

Jumper cables are typically colored red and black. Those colors indicate which cable connects to which post. The red cable will be connected to the positive posts on the dead battery and the charged battery. The black cable will be connected to the negative post on the charged battery. The other end of the black cable will clamp down on the hull of the dead battery's car.

#4: Clear The Cable Path

Do not allow the clamps at the end of the cables to touch each other. Also, make sure that the cables are free of any moving parts. They can easily become caught in the fan, ripping the clamps off the posts.

#5: Good Battery First

Once the cables have been connected to the battery posts, start the engine of the car with the charged battery first. Let the engine idle for a few minutes so its charging system can take some of the load off the battery.

#6: Disconnect, Then Drive

After starting the car with the dead battery, disconnect the jumper cables after the engine turns over. In order for the battery to keep its charge, you'll need to drive it continuously for approximately 30 minutes.

Jump starting a car isn't complicated. You need to memorize which posts are positive and negative, and which cables are connected to which posts. Then, take a few minutes to follow the tips above, ensuring your safety and preventing damage to both vehicles.

Quick 4 tips

Connect one end of the Positive(+) cable to the Positive(+) post of the dead battery.






Connect the other end of the Positive(+) cable to the Positive(+) post of the good battery.







Connect one end of the Negative(-) cable to the Negative(-) post of the good battery.






Connect the other end of the Negative(-) cable to a good solid SHINY, NON PAINTED metal part of the engine on the dead car. Usually a giant shiny nut on the engine block will do. A painted, dirty, or oily nut will not work. You usually want to avoid placing the Negative(-) cable directly on the dead battery to minimize the chance for explosions. You should only use the ground post on the dead battery as a last resort. On this step you'll get a normal spark as you connect the ground and complete the circuit.

Sunday, October 05, 2008

10 Point Checklist to Help Your Car Pass Its MOT

Every year the motorist is faced with the ordeal of the MOT test, unless their car is less than three years old. The purpose of an MOT is to ensure the vehicle complies with road safety and environmental standards. Without it car owners are unable to obtain a tax disc for driving on public roads.

But what does the MOT tester look out for? Is it car tyres or fuel emissions? It can become expensive when the vehicle fails and needs to be re-tested. To help achieve a first time pass, this 10 point checklist highlights the main components that are included in an MOT test:

1. Brakes

The car's brakes are tested on a 'roller brake tester' to assess their condition, performance and efficiency. Brakes that 'lock up' when applied will fail. Other areas to watch out for are loose brake pedals and signs of leaking brake fluid.

2. Doors and Mirrors

Ensure the doors open and close correctly, from the inside and the outside of the vehicle. Car locks need to work adequately. Wing and rear view mirrors must be present and in good condition. A cracked wing mirror will result in a fail.

3. Exhaust System and Emissions

The car will need to pass specific exhaust emission requirements, depending on its age and fuel type. The exhaust system must not have holes or leaks, often caused by rust.

4. Car Bodywork

Excessive rust corrosion, damage or sharp edges on the car's bodywork will result in a fail.

5. Wheels and Car Tyres

The tread depth on a car tyre must be a minimum of 1.6mm. The car tyre needs to be the correct type for the vehicle and have no signs of excessive wear or damage. It is recommended to consult a car tyres specialist to check this. Ensure all the wheel nuts are present as any missing will result in a fail. Spare tyres are not tested.

6. Windscreen, Wipers and Washer

The wiper blades need to be in good condition and the windscreen washer must contain fluid. The windscreen cannot have any large cracks and must have clear visibility.

7. Lights and Indicators

All lights and indicators need to work correctly, including the hazard lights. Check that the headlamps dip to the correct angle and are not loose.

8. Seats and seatbelts

Ensure all seats are secure in the upright position. It is compulsory for seatbelts to be fitted in the front and back of a car. They must be the correct type and in good, working condition.

9. Steering, suspension and horn

All three need to be in good condition and work correctly. Make sure the horn is the right type for the vehicle. Ensure the wheels are correctly aligned and the car tyre pressures are correct, as these can affect the vehicle's steering.

10. Registration Plate and Vehicle Identification Number

The registration plate needs to be in the correct format, legible and in good condition. Every car used after the 1st August 1980 must have its vehicle identification number clearly displayed.

Lights, brakes, suspension and car tyres are the four most common reasons why a car will fail its MOT. This checklist is intended as a guide to improve your cars chance of passing. If in any doubt we recommend consulting your local garage before taking the MOT test.

By James Todman

[James Todman is a freelance web content editor working with Merityre, a leading UK independent car tyres retailer.]

Monday, March 17, 2008

Top 5 Cheap(ish) Fast Cars!

This article will bring together 5 fast road cars that YOU could own... It isn't a definitive list, but a group of fast cars from all kinds of different classes that won't require a lottery win. This is only a handful of similar cars so don't forget to shop around.

  1. Ford Mustang - Believe it or not the mustang first arrived in 1964, making a cameo appearance in Goldfinger. More recently in 1994 Ford began production of the forth generation, with the Mustang GT available as a coupe model V8 outputting 260 horses and producing a 0-60 time somewhere around 6 seconds. Of course if you're not worried about pricing issues than naturally you'll want the limited edition Cobra GT, or even the Ford Mustang Shelby GT... She's a beast of a muscle car.
  2. Golf Gti (MKIII) The MK3 arrived in 1991, it had a larger chassis than previous versions (now weighs over a ton) and this time was built to last, but boy aint it fun?! You can grab one of these cars with a 2.0L 16v engine that will punch out 115BHP. This will do 0-60 in 8.7 seconds and a top speed of 124mph, not too shabby when you can get a high spec version for less than £2000 now a days...
  3. Honda civic type R Although the new Civic is more weighty than its predecessor, its still very quick for its class, it has a 0-62mph time of 6.6 seconds. The top speed hasn't changed and remains at 146MPH. The suspension set-up has also been changed, Honda claim it's now more responsive and rigid. You can pick one up for around £9000, don't forget though this is new and you're paying for quality here. Read the full review of the Honda Civic.
  4. Nissan 300zx The Nissan 300zx is no longer a production car, but you can easily pick up a good used model for under £10,000 and even reaching as low as £5000. Performance wise the twin turbo packs 276BHP, which gets you from 0 to 60 in 6 seconds and with a top speed of around 155mph - it will please. Read the full review of the Nissan 300zx.
  5. Daihatsu Charade Gtti This truly is a little gem. It's the fastest and most powerful 1litre production car EVER. It produces 100BHP and goes from 0-60 in an unbelievable 7.5 seconds. This thing will keep up with your 318i, your Golf Gti and your Escort RS turbo. Granted, its not a family car - it's a pocket rocket. You can pick one up in a good condition for under £2000 and don't worry its very economical too in comparison to your standard sports car! Impress your mates and buy this...
By Tony O'donnell

Wednesday, November 28, 2007

Car Warranty - The Basics

Extended car warranties always sound like a product that car owners should have in place, but few of us completely understand what they entail. The concept behind warranties is not as complicated as many of us think.

Those who have bought a new car from a dealership in recent years are likely to be familiar with the basic idea behind a warranty agreement.

A brand new car is usually covered by the manufacturer's warranty. Often this lasts for the first 12 months that you own the vehicle, although it can sometimes be in effect for a longer period.

Once the initial period has expired, there is then the opportunity to take out an extended warranty. An extended warranty can provide a similar level of cover over a period of months or years, but there will be fees involved.

An extended warranty can bring peace of mind, hence the reason why many people decide to pay for this additional form of cover.

Extended warranties will be available after the initial manufacturer's cover expires and will also be available for many second hand cars.

Many people make the mistake of believing that extended policies must be purchased from manufacturer's or car dealerships. This is not the case.

There are numerous independent car warranty companies that can sell you a new agreement, offering a comprehensive level of cover. Many of these companies will sell direct to consumers online.

By buying online you could save yourself a substantial amount of money. Online purchasing allows you to compare prices more easily and also lets you see exactly what standard of cover you will be getting.

If you are looking to purchase an extended warranty then shop around online - you'll find that there are some excellent deals currently available.

By Keith Barrett

Thursday, August 09, 2007

How To Properly Test Drive A Vehicle

By Joshua Rose

SUMMARY: Don't let the stress and heat level produced from the car buying process keep you from performing the kind of test drive you'll learn the most from.

It doesn’t matter where you found the car, whether at a Dealership or from a private seller, the time will come when you need to drive the car with a critical eye, ear and feel. And you may not be totally comfortable with the prospect of doing a “test drive” because it’s obviously something most people don’t have to do very often.

So let’s do a trial run here. Some of this may seem painfully obvious, but you may be surprised by what many car buyers forget to do when in the heat of the buying process. So, try to stay calm and cool. You may even want to do a dry run on your own car first just to help the learning (or remembering) process.

Before starting the vehicle, inspect the interior and sit in each seat. Are the seats comfortable? Is there enough room for the passengers you are likely to have in the vehicle? If it’s a factor in your life, will passengers be comfortable on a long trip?

If you’re looking at a minivan or SUV (especially one with a third row), remove the seats to judge their weight and the ease of doing so. This will also help you evaluate the total space available for your cargo needs. Also, flip and fold the seats into their various configurations to measure how flexible the interior is.

Next, open the trunk. Think about the kind of vehicle use you anticipate. Imagine loading groceries, luggage or other bulky items you’re likely to transport. Also check the spare tire compartment. Is it accessible and easy to open and close?

Then, sit in the driver's seat and adjust the seat, steering wheel, and mirrors to your specific driving position. Does your body seem to fit the seat? Is the seat too hard or too soft? Remember, you’ll be spending a lot of time right there.

Now look around and check your visibility. Are there any blind spots hampering your field of vision? Also, can you tell where the edges of the vehicle are?

While you’re in the vehicle, test the heater/air conditioner, the stereo system, all the power accessories, the windows, headlights, turn signals, visors, and emergency brake. As you’re reaching around, does anything seem out of place or awkward for you? Can you see your speedometer and other gauges without obstruction?

How about the seat belt? Is it easy to put on? Do you have to reach back too far to find it? Is there anything about it that may bother you over time?

Now think about things you’ll likely have with you when driving. For example, are there enough cup holders? Are there enough convenient compartments for your CDs and so forth? How about power outlets? Where are they and are there enough to meet your needs?

Now actually go for a drive. Start out in a relaxed, easy mode as you get used to the vehicle. If possible, pick a route you’re familiar with and one that has different driving environments (flat, uphill, downhill and highway). If you’re in an area you are not familiar with, let the Dealer or seller direct you to these kinds of driving locations.

Keep the conversation to a minimum and the radio off. Does the engine accelerate smoothly and quietly (unless it’s the kind of vehicle that’s supposed to be a bit rough or noisy)? Do the tires make any noise?

Try all of the gears. Is the transition from one gear to another smooth? What’s the acceleration like on a hill? Also, are there any noises when turning? Does the steering wheel adjust back smoothly after turning?

How does the car drive on the highway? Is the noise level appropriate? Is there any shimmering? Does the vehicle repeatedly drift off in one direction or another?

Now find a safe area to brake hard several times. Are you getting predictable performance from the brakes that you feel comfortable with?

Find a parking lot and make two 360-degree turns each direction. Is the turning radius acceptable to your needs? And if possible and safe, try out an emergency maneuver as if you were suddenly forced to evade another car or a pedestrian. Did the vehicle manage the maneuver in a predictable way and remain easy to handle?

When you return the car, put it in Park with the emergency brake on. Then, go out and listen to the engine idle. Is it running relatively quietly and consistently? Note the same about the exhaust.

If you are now satisfied that this is the vehicle for you, it’s time to finalize the price (fun, fun, fun). Once agreed, if this is a used vehicle, it’s time for setting up your independent mechanical inspection before making your final decision.

Sunday, August 05, 2007

Mileage modifications in cars

By Groshan Fabiola

Since the first mass production car ever to emerge from a car factory, technology has improved greatly if not tremendously. From the early spooks wheel we have now alloy rims, from simple 2 stroke engines we now have 8 L v engines that tear up the road, not to mention about the luxury that a car can now offer the driver and passengers. In our present day technology is moving at an even increased rate than it was 140 years ago. But with all complicated things complications and problems are bound to appear. In this short paper we shall talk a few of them and those will be mileage adjustment, correction and reset.

Mileage is the amount of miles that a car has gone and that is indicated on a special designated place on the dashboard of the car. As with other components of the car problems and defections may appear to the system that tells us the correct distance we are making will driving the car.

For one reason or another parts on the odometer, the part that tells as the number of miles driven so far, may fail to function properly. Problems may also occur in the engine or to the gears that are used to tell the mileage. Because of this the number that the driver sees is most certainly wrong. In this cases a mileage adjustment or correction is needed so that the car’s odometer will once again star working normally. Also in some cars the need for mileage reset will sometimes be present because of two things: either the odometer has reached its full or the owner of the car wishes to sell the car and thus reset the mileage for the customer. Caution should be taken when buying an used car, because the mileage might be reset or tempered with; selling the car without informing the new owner about the mileage corrections, adjustments or resets is illegal.

Usual problems that need mileage adjustments later on would be car crashes that damage parts of the car or odometer, tempering with from certain people, or more recently problematic impulses from the electrical system. The habit this days in making cars is to put and electronic dashboard because there are less parts involved and there is a lower cost in production. But as with all other man made things nothing is safe and thus problems do occur, problems that need mileage adjustments and even mileage resets. Most electrical problems in new cars happen for a variety of reasons: either the battery of the vehicle was completely discharged and the car had to be jump started, malfunctions because of collision or electric faults in the dashboard circuitry.

To deal with all of this problems engineers have developed ways to make mileage adjustments and resets so that the car is once again functional. With the help of modern technology new devices have been created to repair all of this problems in a car. If ever in need of a mileage correction, a mileage adjustment or a mileage reset special car shops are new available where you can go with your car and the thing done in the best of time and for the most reasonable of prices. The best thing to do would be to find one of this repair shops that has German equipment, the best on today’s market. The crew handling this equipment must also be trained in using them and very skilled at what they do.

This days modern equipment helps a lot in diagnosing properly the problem of the car, the engineers knowing afterwards if the car needs a mileage adjustment or a compleat mileage reset.

When trying to sell a car the owner should always keep in mind that if the car has suffered any mileage adjustments or corrections he is forced by the law to let the next owner know all about the changes done to the odometer.

Friday, July 20, 2007

Things To Know About Water Damaged Vehicles

You might not know it, but if a vehicle is caught in a flood and is partially or even entirely submerged, it is not always taken off to the junk yard for scrap. Many times these card are sold through salvage auctions, taken to far off locations, and cleaned up for re-sale. It is not often the case that these cars that are being re-sold are identified as having been flooded before. There are a lot of things you should know about water damaged vehicles. Any vehicle that has sustained water damaged is susceptible to mold growth in the vehicles interior, especially if the vehicle was allowed to sit untreated in warm temperatures and dry naturally. If the doors to the car or truck have been left shut and its been let to try naturally, the musty odor inside will be very prevalent and you will not have to have any kind of training to detect it. Some dishonest car dealers (or private owners trying to get rid of the car) will try to mask the smell of the water damage with all manner of air fresheners and if you smell anything pleasant while looking inside a car that obviously is not brand new, you should probably walk away because they are hiding something. Look for any kind of rust in the interior of the car and the trunk, especially near the taillights and check the carpeting for signs of damage. Carpet that has soaked up water and has not been properly treated will most likely stink, especially if it has been submerged in the sewer water thats often brought to the surface by flooding. You might think that if the water dries out, the engine of the vehicle will be just fine, but this probably is not the case if it has not been restored by a professional. Sewage, sand, and other debris could have seeped into it and cause misfirings and blown gaskets. Water damaged vehicles can also suffer electrical problems, especially in newer models where most things are monitored electrically like timing on headlights, the radio, when the oil needs to be changed, and all the way down to how many miles are on the car. Unless the carpet and its padding were removed and the interior cleaned by a professional and the car was submerged in sewer water, high levels of bacteria and mold are very possible, too. Paying for a vehicle history from Carfax.com could be beneficial if you get the cars VIN, but please be aware that the car will only show up as having been flood damaged if an insurance agent has looked at the car and it was recorded. If the vehicle history report does not show it was flooded, but it appears to be water damaged, back away. You are likely to find a better deal somewhere else.

Monday, February 19, 2007

How To Change Your Car's Motor Oil in 3 Steps

By Rex Freiberger

SUMMARY: 3 Simple Steps to Changing YOur Car's Motor Oil.

Ideally, you should change your motor oil every three months or after every 3,000 miles. If you often drive around in hot or dusty conditions, you might even want to change oil more often than that.

The process is pretty simple, and as easy as one-two-three. Step one is getting ready, step two is draining the oil and changing the oil filter while step three is installing the new oil.

1) Getting Ready
When getting ready, it is important to have the right tools and materials on hand, such as jack stands, a socket set and an oil drain pan. Let your car engine run for 10 minutes before you drain the oil since warm oil is easier to drain than cold. Make sure you park on a level surface or, if your car has a low clearance, jack it up or drive it onto a ramp. If youre jacking up the car, use two jack stands instead of one. (An additional jack costs about $20 and that is a small price to pay to spare your face from being squished by a badly balanced car.) You might want to check your cars manual about the weight of oil and type of oil filter you need to use.

2) Draining the Oil and Changing the Oil Filter
To drain the oil, crawl under the car and look for the oil drain plug under the engine near the front of the car. Position your pan beneath the plug then use a socket wrench to loosen the plug, turning counterclockwise. Once loosened, you can use your hand to remove the plug and the hot oil starts pouring out. Make sure all the old oil is drained into the pan. Once its completely drained, wipe the drain plug and the plug opening. Now replace the drain plug gasket and use a wrench to reinstall the plug but dont make it too tight.

Next, look for the oil filter. They are usually at the side of the engine. Place the oil pan beneath the filter in case any oil remains. Unscrew the oil filter (use gloves if it is too hot) and wipe the filter area clean, especially where it mounts to the engine. Dab a bit of your new oil on the rubber seal of the new filter and then screw it in by hand. You dont have to use a wrench to tighten the oil filter.

3) Installing New Oil
Remove the oil filler cap thats located at the top of the engine. Position the funnel at the opening and slowly start pouring in the new oil You might want to check your manual for the proper oil capacity but, typically, you will need four or five quarts of oil. Once youre done, put back the oil filler cap. Start the engine, let it run for a minute and then check the dipstick. If you need to, add more oil. Now check for any leaks near the oil drain plug and the filter. If you do find leaks, simply tighten the plug or oil filter.

Youre done. But dont forget to clean up. Carefully wipe away any excess oil and put the old oil into a plastic container then dispose of it. Dont just pour it anywhere, though. Better to take it to the recycle center or other authorized locations.

Tuesday, August 15, 2006

Simple Things You Can Do To Extend The Life Of Your Car

By Gregg Hall

As the price of a new automobile continues to get higher every year it is necessary to begin thinking of them in the long tem instead of trading as often as we used to. I know I intend to drive my 2005 Nissan Titan until the wheels fall off. I broke my own rule of not buying a new car because I was so enamored with looks and performance of the truck.

There are numerous things that you can do to make your car or truck last longer some cost money and some don't. Here are a few ideas to get you started.

Never neglect the finish of your car. Wash your vehicle regularly and don't let things like bug splatter and road tar stay on your paint. These items can cause permanent pitting and scarring. If you live in an area that is near the coast or up north where they sort the roads you will need to wash more frequently to remove the salt that can cause rusting. You also want to keep a good protectant on your finish to help protect it. I recommend you look at a good PTFE based product. This is the same thing used on Teflon frying pans. In my opinion you don't want wax on your car. Wax is good for one thing, candles. It is made to melt under heat, I don't think I want that on my vehicle.

If you aren't driving your car keep it out of the elements by garaging it or parking it under some kind of covered parking. If you don't have access to something like this then buy a water repellant cover for it. I have seen many vehicles ruined just because they were left out in the sun everyday and it oxidized the paint. This will happen rapidly on darker colors and red is especially susceptible.

On the list of items that should just be common sense is regular maintenance. Having your oil changed, tune-ups, and things like belt replacements are all regular upkeep things that must be done if you want your car to last as long as possible. Regular maintenance will go a long way to prolonging the life of your vehicle.

It's easy to tell the vehicles that are owned by people who care about their vehicles because they will invariably look almost as good as they did when they were bought and in some cases my even look better.