How to Repair Chips and Scratches - Properly

Scratches and chips on the paintwork of your car can be an eye-sore and can have a detrimental affect on the resale value of your car. To properly repair chips and scratches on the paintwork of your car you need to get together the following items to do the job:

• Touchup or color matched paint
• Compatible primer
• Organic cleaner
• Solvent
• 3M Imperial Hand Glaze
• Sanding Block 2000 grit
• Car wash
• 600 grit wet/dry sandpaper
• Round un-dyed wooden toothpicks
• Large lightweight cardboard boxes (large shoe box or bigger)
• Several 100% cotton towels
• New pencils with unused erasers
• Rubber glue
• Several heavy clean plastic cups
• Roll of quality masking tape

Paint chip repair is a learned skill and should be practiced on an area of the car that is not readily visible. Don't try repairing the larger panels such as the hood first.

Test all cleaners or solvents on the paint prior to usage. Apply a little cleaner or solvent to a cloth and rub it onto a patch on the car not clearly visible. If you do not get any color on the rag, then the cleaner/solvent should be safe for the paint. If you do get color on the rag, then you need to try another solvent.

REPAIR STEPS:

Step 1

At least 24 hours before you want to start, use the rubber glue to attach small 600 grit sandpaper circles (the diameter of the eraser) onto several new pencils. The eraser must be unused and flat on top.

Step 2

Wash the car with a quality car wash and dry thoroughly.

Step 3

Paint chips are generally of two different types. The worst case has exposed the bare metal, while the less severe has left the original primer paint still intact. Clean the area of the chip thoroughly with a degreaser. If there is rust on the exposed metal, clean off with the pencil eraser. Use a toothpick to gently probe the area and make sure that the edges of the chip are secure and not waiting to fall off and ruin your work.

This is an optional step! If you do not feel comfortable with sanding or your paint is one of the new clear-coated finishes, you should jump to step number 5.

Take the new pencil/sandpaper tool you made earlier and dip it into clean water and put a few drops of water on the chip area.
*SLIGHTLY* rough up the chip and a small portion of the surrounding paint. Lightly turning the pencil will rough up an area the diameter of the eraser and this should be more than enough. Keep the roughed up area as small as possible, the object is to give the new paint approximately 1 mm of old paint to "grab" around the perimeter of the chip and not dig scratches.

Step 4

Move onto the next chip and repeat the above. Depending upon the amount of time available, you may wish to tackle 10-20 chips at one time. Try to stay within the area that may be covered by your box(es).

Step 5

When finished sanding all your chips you are tackling at this time apply a small amount of Alcohol or Enamel Reducer to a rag and wipe each chip and surrounding area to remove any sanding dust and grease/oils. Use additional solvent and new area of the rag for each chip. Allow to dry (these are highly volatile and will evaporate quickly with no residue).

Step 6

If the original primer is intact, and "pencil sanding" does not disturb the primer, then skip the next step and go directly to painting
(step 9).

Step 7

Make sure that the chip and surrounding area is clean. If not, reclean with the organic cleaner, Alcohol or Enamel Reducer. Pour or spray a small amount of primer into a clean plastic cup. Dip the point of a wooden toothpick into the primer to get a thin coating on the first 1-2 mm of the toothpick. If there is a blob on the end, gently scrape it back into the cup. Place the tip of the toothpick against the center of the chip and allow capillary action to literally flow a *THIN* coat of the primer into the depression of the chip.

Move onto the next prepared chip.

If you have finished priming all your prepared chips before two hours are up, cover with a box, taped down with masking tape. The key is to allow the first coat of primer to dry at least two hours.

Dispose of your cup and start with a fresh cup and toothpick. Apply another thin coat of primer to each repair that needs primer. Priming is completed when no metal is visible and the level of the primer is below the level of the surrounding paint. This is important! Cover and allow dry for two hours or until dry.

Step 8

Apply a small amount of Alcohol or Enamel Reducer to a rag and wipe the chip and surrounding area to remove any sanding dust and grease/oils. Allow to dry. Repeat for all the chips you intend to repair.

Step 9

If you are using a touchup, shake the bottle thoroughly. If you are using color-matched paint, mix thoroughly and pour a small amount into a clean plastic cup.

Step 10

Dip the point of a new toothpick into the paint to get a thin coating on the first 1-2 mm of the toothpick. If there is a blob on the end, gently scrape it back into the bottle. Place the tip of the toothpick against the center of the chip and allow capillary action to literally flow the paint into the depression of the chip. Repeat for each chip. The key is not to use too much paint. Do not re-dip the toothpick. Use only the amount that will flow from one dip.

Step 11

Cover with your paint box and allow to dry 2 hours and repeat 8-12 times till the depression is filled with paint and bulges slightly upward and covers the roughed up area with a thin coating of paint. The first 2-3 coats may not completely hide the primer. This is fine because you have many more coats to go.

Step 12

The paint application is completed when the new paint bulges slightly upward (a fraction of a millimeter) and had covered the roughed up area with a thin coat of new paint. Allow the paint to dry for at least a week.

Step 13

The touchup paint has been applied to the surface and allowed to dry for at least 1 week, and resembles a minute mound on the flat plane of the existing paint.

The object is to remove the mound and make the surface of the paint one continuous flat plane. The Finesse Block offers the ability to gently remove only the high spot of the repair. Unlike sandpaper or polish on a rag, the five usable sides of the block are flat and act like a "wood plane" to remove only the elevated areas of the repair. The 2000 grit will not leave scratches.

Step 14

Soak the Finesse Block in clean water for 24 hours prior to use. Put a small drop of car wash on the chip repair. This acts as a lubricant for the sanding block. Then gently "plane" the high spot on the paint. "Plane" in one direction (usually back to front - drawing the block towards me). If the block dries out, re-wet and continue use.

When the new and existing paints are blended (smoothed to the flat plane) to your satisfaction, clean the area using a quality car wash and lots of water and then use a quality glaze to restore the high gloss finish. I prefer 3M Imperial Hand Glaze. Don't use a machine on your car.

Step 15

When applying either a glaze or a wax, apply to your soft cotton cloth or applicator pad and work in one direction only. Circles are many times the cause of "swirl marks." A front-to-back, back-to-front motion (the way the air flows over the car) will help minimize swirl marks or at least make them less visible. Buff out with a soft cotton cloth. If it looks good, wax with a quality hard wax and you are done.

Step 16

Tip for applying wax. If you are using a quality Carnauba based wax, try applying it with your fingers instead of a pad or cloth. Hold your fingers together and use your fingertips as an applicator pad. The tactile feedback from your fingers will tell you when the wax has been worked into the paint. If grit should lodge under your fingers, you will know immediately and not grind it into the paint. A pad will not allow this tactile feedback.

A circular motion of the pad will make a 360-degree swirl mark. All marks on paint are most visible at a 90 degree viewing angle. Thus the front-to-back marks are most visible from the sides, whereas a circle stands out from any viewing angle.

By Bill Bailey

Taking Care Of Your Car's Transmission

In order to maintain you car in a good shape, to offer you the safety as well the performances it was designed for in the first place, taking care of your vehicle's transmission is a vital thing you should take care of. Modern cars have very complex drive trains, and the transmission being one of the most important elements of it, repairing it because of the in-proper use can be very costly. The most serious operations on a car's drive train can only be executed in specialized shops, but the casual maintenance operations you can make them yourself.

The biggest enemy of the vehicle's transmission is heat. There are many causes for the heating of the transmission's elements, and many are related to operating your car under difficult conditions. Racing with your vehicle, towing a load, or repeatedly putting it in drive and reverse for exiting heavy snow or mud can contribute to the overheating of its ensembles.

If you often are forced to operate your car under these circumstances, you can benefit greatly from adding additional cooling to your transmission. Such a cooler will be mounted on the radiator and it will cool the transmission fluid. Because many SUV owners use them to tow heavy vehicles, they came equipped from the factory with such auxiliary transmission coolers.

In the following paragraph you will find a series of tips about properly maintaining your car's transmission. The most important aspect is to have your transmission fluid checked on a regular basis. Also check for its color. It should be red. If it had turned brown or it has a burnt smell should be changed at once. Before buying transmission fluid, check with your car's owner's manual to se the exact type the manufacturer recommends. Never mix two different types of fluid of fluids coming from different manufacturers. The recommended period to replace it is every 2 years or every 24,000 miles, which ever condition occurs first. When you want to put your car in reverse, come to a complete stop first. Changing from drive to reverse while the vehicle is still moving will harm your transmission. In order to protect vital transmission elements, put the cark into park after you have pressed the brake pedal and pull the emergency brake. By doing this, less stress is applied to the drive train. Always change gears from park to drive only when your engine is at idle.

When towing a very heavy load or when you are climbing abrupt terrain, be sure to disengage the overdrive feature, if your car is equipped with such a option, as it will prevent the car from repeatedly changing gears from and to overdrive. Overdrive is the highest gear in the transmission and it used to allow that vehicle to run at highway cruising speeds with a reduced revs, in order to mainly save fuel and reduce noise. If the automatic gear in your car has a 4-speed transmission with overdrive, the overdrive refers to the 4th gear. The same is with cars with 5-gear automated transmission with overdrive. There is the possibility to have a smaller car, with a 4 or 5 way automated transmission, but without the overdrive function.

By Dennis J James

Car Warranty - The Basics

Extended car warranties always sound like a product that car owners should have in place, but few of us completely understand what they entail. The concept behind warranties is not as complicated as many of us think.

Those who have bought a new car from a dealership in recent years are likely to be familiar with the basic idea behind a warranty agreement.

A brand new car is usually covered by the manufacturer's warranty. Often this lasts for the first 12 months that you own the vehicle, although it can sometimes be in effect for a longer period.

Once the initial period has expired, there is then the opportunity to take out an extended warranty. An extended warranty can provide a similar level of cover over a period of months or years, but there will be fees involved.

An extended warranty can bring peace of mind, hence the reason why many people decide to pay for this additional form of cover.

Extended warranties will be available after the initial manufacturer's cover expires and will also be available for many second hand cars.

Many people make the mistake of believing that extended policies must be purchased from manufacturer's or car dealerships. This is not the case.

There are numerous independent car warranty companies that can sell you a new agreement, offering a comprehensive level of cover. Many of these companies will sell direct to consumers online.

By buying online you could save yourself a substantial amount of money. Online purchasing allows you to compare prices more easily and also lets you see exactly what standard of cover you will be getting.

If you are looking to purchase an extended warranty then shop around online - you'll find that there are some excellent deals currently available.

By Keith Barrett

Anti-Lock Braking and its importance

By Dennis James

The ABS (Anti-Lock Braking) in one of the most important elements of a modern vehicle’s braking system. It works by a specialized computer activating the brake pumps so that during a powerful deceleration the wheels will not lock-up and you will be able to steer the car under such a circumstance. The situation was different before this system’s introduction. When you used to press powerfully the brake pedal, the system was fully activated permanently and the wheels blocked. This resulted in very numerous crashes, and a popular method among drivers to avoid brake lock-up was to pump the brakes.

With the introduction of ABS however these problems were solved, because the electronics does everything. An ABS fitted braking system will pump the brakes up to 15 times per second. You have to admit that no driver could match this performance.

You might ask yourself how ABS works.
Each wheel is fitted with sensors. They scan continuously the movement of each wheel and when they sense that a wheel has stopped, which is the case with a powerful braking, this sensor will transmit the ABS computer a signal. The computer will regulate the pressure in the braking system for all four wheels accordingly and this way wheel lock-up is reduced.
The computer will direct the braking pump to increase and reduce pressure in the system a few dozen times per second all the time the brake pedal is pressed. The driver can steer the car almost normally, because he will have control of the wheels in avoiding an obstacle, for example.
You can hear and feel the ABS when it enters the scene, you will feel some short movements in the brake pedal and you will hear a distinct sound.

Your breaking distances will not be reduced if your car is fitted with ABS. It has other purposes, to allow you to handle the car in a case when a powerful brake is necessary. There may be situations when ABS braking will actually increase the braking distance of the vehicle. If you have to brake forcefully and an obstacle appears in front of you, you will be able to drive around it and not crush into it.

The entire job is done by specialized computers and sensors. The driver is not obliged to do anything special, just to use the brakes in the normal way, braking and keeping the brake pedal pushed. Do not use the pumping technique when driving an ABS fitted car, because the actual pumping is being done by the system.

The early systems were rear-wheel ABS, which pumped only the rear wheels. They have been used quite some time ago in SUVs and pick-up trucks and are no longer produced. Today almost all cars are manufactured with four-wheel ABS as standard equipment. In this case, the system uses the sensors at each wheel to pump them all, individually, according to the situation. It is the most efficient system, the more precise, but it is the most expensive one to implement. Some less expensive cars are fitted with a three-channel system.

Dennis runs Car Dealer Check a website dedicated to providing honest car dealer ratings and providing a consumer car dealer survey service.

5 Simple Tips to Improve Your Car Detailing

By Chad Hervig

Did you know that, apart from a house and the expense of raising children, an automotive is the most expensive item the vast majority of us will ever buy? Why then do we find it acceptable to neglect these expensive purchases? C'mon folks, let's get out there in the sunshine and give our cars a good cleaning! They love it, I know they do.

I used to run a pickup and delivery car wash business, and I quickly realized the importance of the following five tips that I'm going to share with you. Some may sound simple, but you'd amazed at how many of my friends and neighbors I see washing their cars the hard way.

I'm going to assume that everyone knows to spray your car down with water thoroughly before employing these steps. It dislodges the loose dirt and dust that would otherwise be swirled around with your mitt, and it also effectively cools the surface temperature of your car a bit before washing, which makes cleaning easier.

№1 - Clean the Tires First.

I never condone the use of harsh chemicals on a vehicle's paint, but on tires and rims it's generally a good way to go, simply for the time savings and the effectiveness of most cleaners (email me or visit my website for recommendations). I use a soft bristle brush and an old wash mitt. Do NOT use the same water that you're going to use to wash the car, since the brake dust and road tar that your rims accumulate, not to mention those harsh chemicals that you used to clean them, are not good for your paint at all.

№2 - Repeat After Me:

We wash the car from the TOP down! This is a simple tip, but most folks tend to forget it, instead just dunking their mitt in the water and slapping it up on the nearest body panel. Why does it matter? Not only does gravity dictate that dirt and water always run to ground, but you actually end up saving a lot of time, soapy water, and rinse water when you start at the top. Try it and you'll agree. I also find that it ensures a more thorough and consistent cleaning.

№3 - Don't use old bath towels to dry off your car.

I know it's easy to do it that way, but those towels actually aren't soft enough to keep from putting miniscule scratches into your paint. You won't notice it right away, but try drying the same car with crusty bath towels for a couple years, and you'll definitely notice a duller paint finish. But don't throw those towels away! Use them to dry your windows, rubber trim, door jambs, wheels and tires, really anything but the paint. What do you dry the rest of your car with? A chamois. I'll always prefer the genuine sheepskin chamois, but there are some competitive synthetic ones out there.

№4 - Cost Saving tip here:

Save your old newspapers for cleaning your car windows! You still need to use Windex of course, but old newspapers are essentially free and they actually do a MUCH better job of cleaning your windows, with drastically less lint than paper towels. Also, a wad of newspaper goes a lot longer before needing to be replaced. At the car wash where I ran my business, we used to dig the newspapers out of the trash cans. Free! Just grab a full page, crumple it up into a large wad, and off you go. For some reason, the color pages don't work as well, so try to use the black and white pages. Seriously, if you've never tried this then you'll thank me.

№5 - Use a damp rag on your dashboard and interior trim before applying the vinyl detailer (Armor All or similar).

When you spray your dash, your seats, the door panels, and everywhere else with detailer without first wiping it down, all that dust and grime just gets spread around, not really removed. This step is also free, and will save you money in Armor All as well. Take a clean rag, dampen it with water, and quickly wipe everything down. Take a peak at your rag. See? Afterwards apply your vinyl detailer SPARINGLY. Now that's a nice looking interior.

We spend so much money on our cars, and so much time in them, folks. I for one am glad to spend so much time in mine. Without my car I'm . . . well I'm a guy who's looking for his car. Let's send the right message about ourselves by keeping our cars in great shape!

Antique Ohio Electric Car

By George Christodoulou

Electrically operated automobiles are amongst the earliest vehicles, and are more energy efficient than all the conventional vehicles that use ICE (internal combustion engine) technology. Fortunately, for us the electric car doesn’t produce any exhaust fumes, and causes minimal or no pollution even if it charges from most renewable forms of energy. Besides this, these ‘green’ or ‘hybrid’ cars are capable of reducing our dependence on traditional fuels, while helping to mitigate global warming by providing relief from the greenhouse effect.

Electric cars are among the earliest automobiles, more so since electric vehicles predate petroleum and diesel cars. It’s believed that a Scottish businessman, Robert Anderson invented the first proto type electric coach somewhere around 1832-1839. However, it was the year 1835, that Professor Sibrandus Stratingh of Groningen, Netherlands, helped his assistant Christopher Becker design and build the first small electric car.

The antique Ohio electric car is a vintage car now. The Ohio Electric Car Company produced electric cars, which were mainly bought by rich customers during the late 1800s and early part of 1900s. Electric vehicles were also produced by Edison, Anthony, Bakers and others during the early 1900s and even out-sold the conventional vehicles for some time! But due to technological limitations, besides other factors, these vehicles were limited to a maximum speed of 32 km/hr.

However, in 1913, Cadillac introduced the electric starter car, the sales of electric cars experienced a down slide and soon antique Ohio electric cars became just that, antiques. Now, electric cars are more popular than they have ever been with the fear of global warming and the increasing cost of gas.

George Christodoulou,
If you have any questions about antique Ohio electric cars, please visit http://electricvehiclesite.com

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=George_Christodoulou http://EzineArticles.com/?Antique-Ohio-Electric-Car&id=527431

Car Check List Before a Long Trip

By Pauline Go

Even a small problem inside the vehicle during a long journey could make life miserable if the vehicle is not prepared prior to the journey. Listed below are some useful suggestions that can be taken as a checklist for preparing the vehicle for a long trip.

Checking the engine oil:

Most of the problems arising in the engine are due to usage of improper engine oil. It is always important to periodically examine the color and the level of the engine oil and replace it once the color turns dark.

Automatic Transmission fluid:

Another important aspect that can cause a great damage if ignored is the automatic transmission fluid. It is always better to replace the automatic transmission fluid prior to the journey. A normal transmission liquid is red in color. The color of the fluid gradually turns brown and loses its thickness under high temperature. Depending on the mileage covered by the vehicle and the speed, the oil might even turn black.

Engine antifreeze:

The antifreeze or the coolant level in the overflow tank should be between “min” and “max” levels so as to ensure a safe and comfortable ride without the engine getting heated up. Any possible leaks inside the tank are indicated by unusually low levels of the coolant. It is always better to get the tank checked for leaks from a maintenance engineer before filling up the reservoir.

Battery:

Any new battery usually lasts for a period of 2-3 years. If the battery is more than 4 years old, it is better to get it replaced. Another option is to get the battery examined by a service engineer or else carry a spare one inside the car.

Other important things that need to be checked before going on a journey include the pressure in the tires, checking the brake fluid, power steering fluid, air filters, fuel level, loosened clamps, steering and suspension components, lights and windshield wipers. Certain emergency features that must be taken on a journey include a spare tire, a first-aid box, tool box, flashlight, screwdrivers, pliers, a spare headlight bulb, a bottle of engine oil and antifreeze liquid.

How To Properly Test Drive A Vehicle

By Joshua Rose

SUMMARY: Don't let the stress and heat level produced from the car buying process keep you from performing the kind of test drive you'll learn the most from.

It doesn’t matter where you found the car, whether at a Dealership or from a private seller, the time will come when you need to drive the car with a critical eye, ear and feel. And you may not be totally comfortable with the prospect of doing a “test drive” because it’s obviously something most people don’t have to do very often.

So let’s do a trial run here. Some of this may seem painfully obvious, but you may be surprised by what many car buyers forget to do when in the heat of the buying process. So, try to stay calm and cool. You may even want to do a dry run on your own car first just to help the learning (or remembering) process.

Before starting the vehicle, inspect the interior and sit in each seat. Are the seats comfortable? Is there enough room for the passengers you are likely to have in the vehicle? If it’s a factor in your life, will passengers be comfortable on a long trip?

If you’re looking at a minivan or SUV (especially one with a third row), remove the seats to judge their weight and the ease of doing so. This will also help you evaluate the total space available for your cargo needs. Also, flip and fold the seats into their various configurations to measure how flexible the interior is.

Next, open the trunk. Think about the kind of vehicle use you anticipate. Imagine loading groceries, luggage or other bulky items you’re likely to transport. Also check the spare tire compartment. Is it accessible and easy to open and close?

Then, sit in the driver's seat and adjust the seat, steering wheel, and mirrors to your specific driving position. Does your body seem to fit the seat? Is the seat too hard or too soft? Remember, you’ll be spending a lot of time right there.

Now look around and check your visibility. Are there any blind spots hampering your field of vision? Also, can you tell where the edges of the vehicle are?

While you’re in the vehicle, test the heater/air conditioner, the stereo system, all the power accessories, the windows, headlights, turn signals, visors, and emergency brake. As you’re reaching around, does anything seem out of place or awkward for you? Can you see your speedometer and other gauges without obstruction?

How about the seat belt? Is it easy to put on? Do you have to reach back too far to find it? Is there anything about it that may bother you over time?

Now think about things you’ll likely have with you when driving. For example, are there enough cup holders? Are there enough convenient compartments for your CDs and so forth? How about power outlets? Where are they and are there enough to meet your needs?

Now actually go for a drive. Start out in a relaxed, easy mode as you get used to the vehicle. If possible, pick a route you’re familiar with and one that has different driving environments (flat, uphill, downhill and highway). If you’re in an area you are not familiar with, let the Dealer or seller direct you to these kinds of driving locations.

Keep the conversation to a minimum and the radio off. Does the engine accelerate smoothly and quietly (unless it’s the kind of vehicle that’s supposed to be a bit rough or noisy)? Do the tires make any noise?

Try all of the gears. Is the transition from one gear to another smooth? What’s the acceleration like on a hill? Also, are there any noises when turning? Does the steering wheel adjust back smoothly after turning?

How does the car drive on the highway? Is the noise level appropriate? Is there any shimmering? Does the vehicle repeatedly drift off in one direction or another?

Now find a safe area to brake hard several times. Are you getting predictable performance from the brakes that you feel comfortable with?

Find a parking lot and make two 360-degree turns each direction. Is the turning radius acceptable to your needs? And if possible and safe, try out an emergency maneuver as if you were suddenly forced to evade another car or a pedestrian. Did the vehicle manage the maneuver in a predictable way and remain easy to handle?

When you return the car, put it in Park with the emergency brake on. Then, go out and listen to the engine idle. Is it running relatively quietly and consistently? Note the same about the exhaust.

If you are now satisfied that this is the vehicle for you, it’s time to finalize the price (fun, fun, fun). Once agreed, if this is a used vehicle, it’s time for setting up your independent mechanical inspection before making your final decision.

Car Theft

By Dennis J James

With all the advancement in auto anti-theft technology you would believe that the theft of vehicles would be less than ever before, however, that statement is farther from the truth than you can imagine. A matter of fact, automobile theft is still a booming business. All anti-theft systems can only do so much to aid against car theft.

The National Insurance Crime Bureau recently reported that the vehicle theft rate has risen to nearly 1,260 million vehicles an increase of 14,000 over the previous year. With this report, it shows that car thefts have increased consecutively over the last four years. They also provide suggestions to help every car owner protect their cars from thieves. Anti-theft systems cost quite a bit of money and many car insurance companies do give discounts on your insurance if you have some types of anti-theft devices on your car.

The NICB reported that the total loss for owners and insurance companies due to car theft is more than $8 billion a year, which is a figure that is getting larger each year as vehicles cost more and more. Auto theft costs all drivers with higher insurance rates.

The NICB also reports that where you live also plays a major factor. According to their report, owners living in a port city, an urban area in general, or a town, which is on the border with Mexico or Canada, should take into consideration some extra protection. The NICB lists the top 10 cities, including their surrounding areas, with the highest vehicle thefts from highest to lowest: Modesto, CA.; Phoenix-Mesa, AZ.; Stockton-Lodi, CA.; Las Vegas, NV.; Sacramento, CA.; Fresno, CA.; Oakland, CA.; Miami, FL; San Diego, CA.; and Detroit, MI.

The vehicle you drive even affects its chances of finding itself in the hands of auto thieves. The NICB listed the following vehicles as the most stolen vehicles in 2003 starting with the most stolen, the 2000 Honda Civic, 1989 Toyota Camry, 1991 Honda Accord, 1994 Chevrolet 1500 pickup, 1994 Dodge Caravan, 1997 Ford F-150 pickup, 1986 Toyota Truck, 1995 Acura Integra, 1987 Nissan Sentra and 1986 Oldsmobile Cutlass.

A few helpful tips for protecting your vehicles from car thieves include:

• Never leave your keys in your car; even if you think you have hidden them well, car thieves know all the hiding places.
• Never leave valuables in plain sight - this is too tempting.
• Never leave personal information in your car such as ID’s – this is just asking to become a victim of identity theft.
• Never leave the car title or registration in the car it makes it too easy to sale.
• Always park in well-lit areas.
• Most car thieves tow cars; always leave a standard vehicle in gear and with an automatic use your emergency brakes.
• If you put your car in the garage, lock all windows and doors in the garage.
• Do not believe your car is old so no thief would want it; age doesn’t stop a car thief.
• Even though, nothing can totally protect you against car thieves many could have been avoided with just a few precautions.

Pimp My Ride: Start With Your Rims

By Christopher W Smith

SUMMARY: If you want to enhance the appearance of your car without spending too much money on body kits, or you want to take it slowly to budget your expenses for your car, you should consider changing your car rims first. It is a fact that one of the most noticeable features in a car are the rims.

If you want to enhance the appearance of your car without spending too much money on body kits, or you want to take it slowly to budget your expenses for your car, you should consider changing your car rims first. It is a fact that one of the most noticeable features in a car are the rims. So, if you are planning to customize your car and give it a better look, you should start by replacing your after market rims with a better looking set and also one that will improve the overall performance of your car.

"First, there are different types of rims available today. There are spinners, chrome rims, American racing rims, truck rims and custom rims. All these rims differ in price, size, design, weight and mounting options. If you are a person who just wants to improve the look of your car, you should get spinners or chrome rims. However, if you also want to improve the performance of your car, try getting rims that are built for racing. It is lighter in weight and it improves that road performance of your car.

Most people know that custom rims improve the appearance of a car. However, what many people don’t know is that rims also contribute to the overall road performance of a car. In the early days, rims were made with steel, which were heavy and the handling of the car suffered. However, today car rims are aerodynamically designed, and are lighter which will enhance a car's handling performance.

The size of the rims is also important. The larger the rims of a car, the better it looks and the better the performance. By increasing the size of the rims, you will have better steering response from the car. This is because larger rims tend to increase the surface area of the wheel that comes in contact with the road. Also, because you will be covering most of the rubber in the tires, your car will also look a lot better.

Racing rims are very popular in street cars today. However, there are some people who only prefer to enhance its appearance. If you want a better looking car, and are not really concentrating much on performance, you can consider getting chrome rims or spinners. Chrome rims are popular because of its shiny appearance. Another popular trend today is by installing spinner rims on a car. This particular rim does not have any performance value but is still very popular and eye catching. What spinners do is it creates an optical illusion that even when the car is stationary, it will look as if the wheels are still spinning.

Custom rims are also very popular. This is because it is made from scratch and it is made according to your specifications on what your new rims will look like. Custom rims will cost a little more because it is made from scratch.

These are the kinds of car rims available in the market today. So, if you want to improve the appearance and performance of your car, you can consider upgrading your after market rims to custom rims, spinners, and racing rims. Always remember that by installing larger and lighter rims, you will also improve the performance of your car.

Building the Best Subwoofer Speaker Box Enclosure For Your Car or SUV

By Duane Boodasingh

SUMMARY: Each type of sub requires it's own type of box. If a sub is installed in a box larger or smaller than what is supposed to, it will sound distorted/bad and could be destroyed. Boxes can be built in many shapes, but it is important that the box volume is calculated accurately to achieve maximum performance.

Box Building

Each type of sub requires it's own type of box. If a sub is installed in a box larger or smaller than what is supposed to, it will sound distorted/bad and could be destroyed. Boxes can be built in many shapes, but it is important that the box volume is calculated accurately to achieve maximum performance.

Materials

A box MUST be very sturdy. Most common building materials are 5/8" or thicker particle board or medium density fiberboard. If building a box with Plexiglas, do not use anything less that 1/2 inch thick. A common material used to mold complex shaped boxes is fiberglass, but it is very hard to work with, and require several layers for a smooth finish.

Gluing, Sealing

Glue should be used at all joints to fill any spaces. Any spaces will degrade the performance of your subs, not to mention the annoying noise air makes when being pushed out of a small hole. On applying the glue, let it cure for at least 24 hours before mounting the subs. This is a precautionary mesure to protect the rubbers used to make the subs from the high fumes that some manufacturers glue products have.

Holding Joints Together

In connecting box joints, it is best to screw the joints every four inches or so using 2" - 2-1/2" screws. Pre-drill about 3/4" deep, so that screws do not split the wood at the edges, especially when working with particle/bashboard.

Should I have a Box for Each Sub?

It is advised to have a separate chamber for each sub. Even though not necessary, here are two reasons why such a directive should be taken: First, if one of the subs blows, then the volume of the box will be "twice" as big for the one remaining working sub. This could cause problems and even damage the other sub. The second reason is bracing. Building a box with a divider in the middle will make the box more rigid.

Ports

Ports must be built into your box design to channel out the air made by the sub's vibrations. If a pre-made port is not available, the most common material is PVC . PVC is very rigid, comes in different diameters. Cut the tubing at the desired length. Consider the volume the port takes up when calculating the box volume. Cut a hole in the box. Make sure the hole is as perfect as possible to minimize gaps between the box and the tube. A couple wood braces can be added for screwing the port top the box. Seal the gaps using a proper sealant (Evo Stick or even silicone can be used).

Bracing

Boxes that are more than a foot in width or length or height, should be braced so that the box becomes more sturdy. This can be accomplished with a piece of wood maybe 3 or 4 inches wide across the box). It is a good idea to put wood blocks on the corners for reinforcement. Always consider that blocks, braces, neon lights, etc. inside a box take up space and should be accounted for when calculating internal volume.

Damping/Filling

Damping increases subwoofer efficiency by dissipating some energy that affects the sub, particularly the voice coil. It is advisable to put damping material inside a box. Pillow polyfill and fiberglass insulation are common, though polyfill is a lot easier on your skin. Polyfill also "tricks" a sub into thinking it is in a bigger box. Play around with different amounts of polyfill until you get the desired results.

Making it look professional

Make the box surface free from holes and spaces by adding wood fill. If you decide to paint the box, then you should apply primer first. Carpet or Vinyl padding is the best covering to use since they easily cover any outer blemishes on teh box and give the box a 'smooth' outlook. Be carefull when cutting the vinyl or carpet since such cutters tend to be very sharp. Cut a piece of carpet (or vinyl) big enough to cover the whole box. Apply adhesive to both box and carpet (EvoStick works great). Wait about a minute and place the fabric over the wood. For the best fit, stretch the fabric when applying it. The fabric should wrap around and end in a place of the box that will not be seen. Do one side at a time, cutting excess carpet. If possible, add staples preferabke heavy duty staples that can penetrate the box, to hold the fabric at the ends. NOTE: Do not cover each panel of the box before mounting it together since it would be impossible to find any 'leaks' that may exist in the box design much less fill these leaks.

Car Accidents

By Eric Sotuses

SUMMARY: It is something we hope we will never have, but the reality is at some point we will have a car accident. When we do, we just hope it is small, painless and quick.

It is something we hope we will never have, but the reality is at some point we will have a car accident. When we do, we just hope it is small, painless and quick.

Here are some tips when you get in a car accident. The first thing is to make sure everyone is OK. Remember they are just cars and it is just an accident. Don't let tempers flare. What could have been something very small, can now become a nightmare when tempers flare. If the other driver has bad temper after the car accident, always make sure you call the police right away and if need be, try to have someone there with you, even if you have to flag down another motorist, just don't step in front of their automobile to stop them.

If tempers are under control and everyone is OK, it still might be a good idea to call the police, even if it is just a little fender bender. If the other driver tells you they don't want the police involved because they don't want it on their insurance, just remind them that the police only will right a report and maybe issue a ticket. It is for both parties protecting in case something happen. They other driver can still pay for damages and the insurance company will never know. Personally I would call the police for any size accident. We got hit from behind and the lady was very nice about everything and felt bad for her. Well we never called the police and guess what, we never were paid for the damages and we had no proof, so we ended up paying for the car accident. So you can see why I am a little biased and would say call the police.

A couple of things you can do to protect yourself in a car accident. First always, and I mean always buckle up, even if your just going down the block. You never know what could happen. So remember always buckle up and if your in a car accident, you will have better odds of walking away. Second, get off the phone. I know I am bad also, but plain and simple we should all be off the phone. Think about it, we are driving a 2 ton vehicle, we should pay attention to what we're doing. Third, just remember what is around you and pay attention at all times. Try to reduce the number of distractions you have.

Live happy and drive safely and avoid all car accidents.

How to Pay for Emergency Car Repairs

By Andrew Dillan

Your car has broken down, and now you need to pay for towing, and repairs. Sometimes these repairs cost unexpected hundreds or thousands of dollars. What are your options?

1. Be Prepared

The best way to avoid an emergency is to be prepared for an emergency. If you can set aside a little bit of money each month in case of any emergency (be it medical, automotive, or accident), then you will be able to manage any unexpected situations. However, if the time has come and you haven’t planned ahead, there are still some ways that you can get money.

2. Stay Calm

One of the most common mistakes that is made during emergencies is to lose your cool. If you lose your cool, you might forget to use common sense. Use your common sense to shop around. Even if you need a tow right now, consider calling a few places for quotes before having them send someone over. The ten minutes that it takes you to make some comparisons might save you twenty dollars or more. That makes the use of time well worth your money. Remember, you will be late anyway, so take your time in getting there.

When the tow truck driver arrives, be sure that you know where you want to have your car towed. You should also do some comparison shopping for this. You can even call a friend and have them make some of your phone calls for you. If you don’t know what is wrong with your car, have it taken to a mechanic or dealership that you trust. They will tell you what’s wrong, and you then be able to decide how much (it might be all) of the work you want to have done.

3. Review your Options

When you buy a car, you often get a warranty. You might be signed up for AAA or CAA. Your insurance company might cover some of the repairs needed for your car. Before you go about paying for all of the repairs out of pocket, find out what repairs are covered. Then get approval from the institution that will help you pay. It is easier to get them to pay upfront than to get them to reimburse you.

Consider keeping a membership for CAA or AAA. This means that you will have free towing if you are ever in an accident or if you ever have a breakdown. There is an annual fee, so you would have to weigh the pros and cons of membership. I, personally, find that I have gotten a lot back from my membership, including a peace of mind knowing that I am covered while I travel.

4. What NOT to do

If you need to pay for your emergency repairs, do not get a pay day loan. Pay day loans have exorbitant interest rates and will make it hard for you to get back on top of your debt.

5. Get the best interest

Find out where you will be able to get the best interest rates for the money that you will have to spend. If you take out a loan, then you will be able to pay it back in small pieces throughout the year, rather than taking an upfront loss. This also works if you cannot pay for your car.

If you put the car repairs on your credit card, remember that you will probably be paying a higher interest rate than if you got a car repair loan, or if you went to a bank or credit union. Check the interest rates that varying places offer, including at the dealership if you are having your car repaired there.

6. In the meantime

While your car is in the shop, be smart about how you get around. Don’t take taxis everywhere if you can’t afford them! Ask friends for lifts; they will understand if you are in need because of unexpected car repairs for a few days. Take the bus for a few days. Walk or bike, if possible. Set up a temporary carpool with a co-worker (this could even work for you when you get your car back!). Don’t let the expense of car repairs get larger because you don’t have your car.

The Advent of Car LCD Screens

By Peter Vermeeren

The advent of LCD (Liquid Crystal Display) screens has resulted in an amazing number of applications, which were simply not viable because of the size of CRT display monitors. Car LCD screens have proven to be one of the biggest bonanzas for the consumer market. Because of smaller, lighter and thinner LCD monitors, we can use computers in the car or hook up TV, DVD players and even video game consoles. Just imagine, to be able to watch your favorite TV shows or a movie while traveling long distance is a great source of entertainment for everyone; except for the driver of course! Even the kids can remain busy playing their much-loved video games. You can practically convert your car or SUV into a mobile home theater and enjoy just about all the amenities that you normally would in your household.

Car LCD screens have been instrumental in the growth of so called "in-vehicle computer manufacturers" offering low cost, low end "car pc systems" or "carputers". You can use a car PC or carputer to send or receive e-mails or do any of business related work. These revolutionary conveniences are the result of car LCD screens in conjunction with many other innovative technologies like hand held computers, wireless communications or satellite communications and others.

Car LCD screens come in many sizes and formats (regular or wide screen), ranging from about 7 inches to 12 inches and more to suit the various car types available in the market. You can go with base mounted LCD monitor if there is enough room in the vehicle or you can opt for smaller and compact in-dash screen. You can even get car LCD screens that also offer USB touch screen capabilities. The working of touch screens is based upon emulation of mouse. Consequently, any software designed to work with a mouse will work with the touch screen monitors mounted in the car. Besides the space saving design and size of the car LCD monitors, they also offer an extraordinary bright and high-resolution picture quality that is a treat to watch.

GPS (Geographical Positioning System) is probably one of the most outstanding applications made possible by the development of car LCD screens. This state of the art technology is simply amazing and very useful for every driver on the road. You will never make a wrong turn and never get lost again if your vehicle is equipped with GPS technology. GPS software packages are available for the USA, Canada and most of Europe. It offers the capability to receive turn-by-turn directions to any address nationwide. Because of the clarity of picture quality, the user interface is easy to read on nearly any small car mounted LCD monitor, with its contrasting colors, big icons and fonts. You can even plan your trip to optimize your route before you even leave home! It is a great system for long distance travel that enables traveling from point A to B safe, simple and efficient.

It may sound a little far fetched but the use of GPS technology in combination with the car LCD screens can be extended to achieve some incredible feats. You can probably envision, a lost child or a pet equipped with the GPS chip can be located and traced on your vehicle monitor. Thanks to LCD technology that has made all this feasible.

Buying A Car - Tips On How To Maintain It

By Farnam Toussi

In this article we will look at some general service hints that apply to any car whether you buy it new or used. In most cases, these maintenance costs are not covered by your factory and extended warranty, but are important considerations in getting the best and most reliable service from your car.

The first consideration is where you take it for service. Many people simply take it back to the dealer where they bought it. The advantage there is that if they discover anything that needs fixing under the warranty, they will fix it for you when you take it in for service. But be aware that you pay a premium for dealer service in most things, and you can often cut the cost of that routine maintenance by 30% or more by using a good independent repair shop. And the independent shop may be a bit more observant in pointing out other problems with your car that you can have fixed under warranty back at the dealership.

Check with friends or business associates to see where thery get their car serviced. Many shops offer free shuttle transportation when you drop off or pick up your car. If you have a more exotic car, be sure they specialize in that kind of car. Since the cost of parts can often be more than the cost of labor, you should realize that OEM parts from a dealer usually cost 50% more than the same parts from a good after market supplier, when available. But your dealer always uses OEM factory parts. And items like tires, brakes, filters and rountine maintenance parts are inevitably a good bit more expensive from the dealership.

Once you decide where you want to have your car serviced, stick with them if they do a good job for you. There's no substitute for a good relationship with a repair shop when it comes time for major work or diagnostics. And many a shop will take a one time customer for a "ride", and take the easy route to fixing your problem rather than the most cost effective one. A little story...
I had a girlfirend once with an old Ford Mustang. Her turn signals were not working and she took it into the Ford dealership for repair. They wanted to charge her $220 to replace the whole turn sign mechanism and wiring harness, a big job as it involves dismantling the whole steering column. She couldn't afford it and came to me asking what she should do. I had a hunch and picked up a new blinker relay from the auto parts store for $3. I reached under the dash, popped out the old one and stuck the new one in there.

Presto... the problem was fixed. I was outraged that the dealer was going to charge her $220 when a simple $3 part fixed the problem. I went down there and complained bitterly and they refunded her diagnostic charges anyhow. In general, car repair shops are notorious for fixing things that don't need fixing, and not always because they are completely dishonest... but because it's faster than trying to figure out where the exact cause of the problem really lies. It's the old analogy of fixing a loose nail with a sledgehammer. So finding a good reliable service shop can save you a lot of money over the years.

I recommend you keep a log of your maintenance. It will help you do it regularly and that will prolong the life of your car. Abnd it also looks good when it comes time to sell the car. Here are some service issues that are critical and some hints that not everyone is aware of.

Oil Changes

The average new car recommends an oil change every 7500 miles. I like to change mine twice during that period. Motor oil is cheap and nothing wears an engine out faster than dirty motor oil. The simple process of combustion produces a lot of by-products, acid, carbon, and contaminations from the air. And that contaminates your motor oil pretty quickly. I change it at 4000 but not the oil filter, and then again at 7500 and change the oil filter at that time. I maintain the same schedule thru 7500, 15,000, 22,500, 30,000 and so on.
I use a high grade of motor oil... I have always liked Valvoline. But Quaker State, Pennzoil and other top brands are probably equally good. Stay away from the bargain brands. Quality lubrication is essential to your engine's longevity. In general you want it to look clear and green on the oil dipstick... when it starts getting dark, it's time to change it, and when it gets black it's way overdue.

The exception to this rule is that some synthetic oils which are black in appearance when new. And unlike foods, where "synthetic" is a dirty word, in motor oils, the synthetic variety offers better lubrication than the petroleum based "natural" oils and costs a good bit more as well. If you have an expensive car, it's probably well worth the extra cost for the higher quality motor oil. People who ignore things like routine oil changes because they are too busy are very foolish. Dirty motor oil wears out an engine very quickly and failure to keep it clean may very likely void your warranty.

Transmission oil is another item. Factory service often doesn't require it be changed more than every 30,000 miles. But depending on how and where you drive it can get dirty and worn a lot quicker than than that. In general you want the fluid to appear cherry red and have almost no smell when you pull the transmission oil dipstick. When it is reddish brown and has a burnt smell, then your transmission is suffering. Many cars do not allow an easy change of the transmission fluid. It is often necessary to drop the pan of transmission to drain it, and then that usually holds 3-4 quarts and does not change the majority of the fluid which is in the torque converter. Some cars like my Mercury Mountaineer, have a separate drain plug for the torque converter and allow a change of fluid to be relatively complete. But many others do not. My old Ford Explorer was that way. Changing the fluid by dropping the pan only changed 1/3 the tranmission fluid, so if I waited til it was brown and burnt, one change did not do it. I installed a drain plug in my transmission pan, and changed it 5 times running it a few miles after each change, until I figured I had diluted the old burnt fluid adequately enough. So keep an eye on that fluid and change it often.

Manual tranmissions don't use transmission fluid... they use a 90W gear oil which generally doesn't need to be changed very often. But keep your clutch adjusted properly with a little bit of freeplay at the top, and don't "ride the clutch". Be very careful about resting your foot on the clutch pedal as the weight of the foot can partially depress the pedal, and start to reach the edge of engagement, and this will wear out your clutch's throw-out bearing very quickly. Older cars all used carburettors to mix gas and air and squirt it into the engine for combustion. Newer cars mostly use fuel injection, and while this often works really well and controls emissions, you need to keep those fuel injectors clean. Your local auto parts shop sells a number of brands of fuel injector cleaner and I recommend addiing it to a full tank of gas at least with every oil change. It's a lot cheaper than having your fuel injection system overhauled. And change that air filter regularly or whenever it starts to appear dirty. Nothing slows performance more quickly and gunks up your carburettor or fuel injectors than a dirty air filter.

Tires, Brakes and Shock Aborbers

Other items like tires, brakes and shock aborbers are generally not covered by warranties... they are considered routine maintenance items. Choose your tires carefully... there are a wide range of tire grades, priced accordingly. Invariably those bargain prices you see advertised are junk tires and not worth your time unless you are just fixing the car up to sell. Many tires will offer long mileage warranties, but read the fine print... often that's "pro-rated" and applied to the "list" price of a new one, not the highly discounted price you bought them for. This is an old scam. Put 20,000 miles on those 50,000 mile tires and you may find the adjusted price of a new pair under warranty is higher than what you can buy them or a comparable set for outright. In general, always buy tires at least in pairs. Never put one new tire on one wheel when the other has considerable wear. Generally, it's best to put your new tires on the front to take advantage of better steering and handling with a new tire. But if your car is rear wheel drive, be aware that badly worn tires in the back will cause your car to skid and lose control quickly in wet or slippery conditions. If you rotate your tires regularly, say every 7500 or 10,000 miles at least, then your tires should all wear out around the same time and it's best to replace all four as a set.

When putting on new tires, you should have them balanced and the front end aligned. Bad alignment or balance will wear out new tires much more quickly and can severely impact the handling and ride quality. Often, balancing tries when they are new, does not mean they will still be in balance after 5-10,000 miles. I like to buy my tires from a tire dealer that offers free rotation and rebalancing for the life of the tire. I look for tires which handle well in wet conditions and avoid aquaplaning. Those are usually high end steel belted all-weather radials which also work pretty well in snow as well.

Remember you life and that of your family is riding on your tires. Invest in good quality tires... it's a sound investment. And one more thing, these new "low profile" tires that look so cool on these sport sedans. The low profile means a short sidewall, which means little give and flex there which, while it can contribute to better handling, also means a stiffer less comfortable ride, and more wear on your suspension, since the tires are not absorbing the road irregularities as well, leaving it all up to the more expensive suspension parts.

Shock absorbers are another important and often overlooked component. Worn shocks mean faster tire and suspension wear, particularly the ball joints in the front end. It's relatively easy to check a shock's performance. Push down swiftly on the fender of your car over each of the four wheels. New shocks should be pretty stiff and recover from a hard shove with only a single rebound. If the car bounces up and down several times above the wheel, the shocks are worn and should be replaced. These are not expensive and a good tire dealer can stick in a quality set like Monroe Shocks for little more than $100 for all four on many models of cars.

Also not covered by most warranties, the brakes should be checked regularly (whenever you rotate your tires and replaced when they get low. Driving with worn brakes (typically they squeal badly when you come to a stop) will quickly score your brake rotors or drums and make replacing them essential as well as brake pads or brake shoes. Front brakes usually wear out first, and again depending on how you drive, you can probably expect to replace them every 30,000 miles or so. A good brake shop will turn the rotors or drums, replace the pads or brake shoes, and rebuilt the calipers or wheel cylinders as needed. If you replace them often and the rotors/drums look good, sometimes you can get away with just a new pair of shoes or pads.

Also keep an eye on your brake fluid under the hood. As the brakes pads or shoes wear, the fluid level will drop. That is normal, and you will need to add a bit of brake fluid from time to time. Be casrely not to spill any on the car's paint as it is highly corrosive and will eat thru the paint in a matter of moments.

Car Paint and Interior

In order to preserve the value of your investement, you also want to maintain your car's finish and interior. Keep the car washed and clean. Be careful about automatic car washes. Many news ones do a fine job, but some of the older ones with stiff brushes can scratch your paint badly. If you can keep your car in a garage or under cover, do it. That old junk you have piled up in the garage while your $35,000 car sits out in weather is a poor investment decision. Remove bird droppings and tree

sap as quickly as you possibly can. I keep a plastic bottle with water and a soft rag in my trunk and wipe off bird droppings as soon as I notice them. The acid in there will eat into your paint very quickly and cause a blemish to that paint job. But blot don't rub. Bird droppings typically have sand in them and that can easily scratch your paint. You can remove tree sap and road tar with turpentine or paint thinner from your hardware store. It won't hurt the paint and will quickly dissolve the sap or tar. But is also removes car wax so use it sparingly, and if you do it often, treat your car to a fresh turtle wax a few times a year. A freshly waxed car will cause water to bead up in little round beads on the surface. When those beads start to disappear it's time for another coat of wax. Wax will protect your car's paint, keep it from becoming porous and weathered and making the removal of things like bird droppings and sap much easier.

Remember factory paints are baked on and are in general much more durable than repaints. So it pays to keep up that factory paint job. I like to use Armorall on the car's interior vinyl... it keeps it soft and pliable and prevents cracking and it looks sharp. I also highly recommend using some kind of a windshield protection screen in hot weather if you park out in the sun all day. It will keep the car's interior cooler and also protect the car's dash from cracking. And if your car has leather seats, treat them to a quality leather preservative on a regular basis. Nothing makes a car harder to sell than cracked worn leather seats.

Saving Money With Gas Friendly Car Models

By Gabriel J. Adams

With gas prices averaging over three dollars a gallon, everyone in America is looking for ways to get more gas mileage out of their car. People are making sure they have enough air in their tires, changing their fuel filter, and watching their speed to try to conserve gas. However, there are many gas friendly car models on the market today, which could really put some money in your pocket.

The days are gone where the only gas friendly car models look like toy cars, or have no horsepower. Now you can get a sleek, sophisticated car, with quite a bit of horsepower, and great gas mileage. Many cars are available now like the Honda Accord, Honda Civic, Honda Insight, Lexus GS450H, Toyota Camry, and the Toyota Prius. These cars get anywhere from 25 miles per gallon in the city (Lexus GS450H) on the low end to 61 miles per gallon in the city (Honda Insight). The Insight also gets 68 miles per gallon on the highway, while the GS450H, gets 28 miles per gallon on the highway. Some of these cars have a fully integrated hybrid (gas & electric) engine, while others have a six cylinder engine that turns off three cylinders on the highway to conserve gas.

If you are looking for a sports utility vehicle, but you do not want to get a second mortgage on your house to pay for gas, then you are in luck, because many hybrids are hitting the market now. These include the Ford Escape, Lexus RX400H, Toyota Highlander, and Mercury Mariner. The gas mileage for these models ranges from 31 to 33 miles per gallon in the city, and 27 to 29 miles per gallon on the highway, with the Escape and Mariner getting higher gas mileages.

Not only will these gas friendly car models get more mileage for your gas dollars, the federal government is giving income tax breaks for buying gas friendly car models as well. Many different states are also giving sales tax breaks, parking fee exemptions, and state income tax breaks for purchasing gas friendly cars. Some major cities are also allowing hybrid cars the ability to drive in the high occupancy vehicle lane with only one passenger. The perks to owning a gas friendly car model are very lucrative, so what is stopping you from going out and buying one the next time you are looking for a new car?

Government Seized Auto Auction - 10 Crucial Tips To Buying At An Auction

By Travis Sago

You can buy a real dream vehicle at a government seized auto auction, but you can also purchase one huge nightmare of a lemon monster. These tips will steer you in the right direction.

1. Biggest tip: Get to the government auto auction early. You have got to pick out the cars you are interested in and inspect the cars thoroughly. If you don't want to have a sour lemony taste in your mouth later, run a vehicle history report! Have someone standing by that you can call on your cell and run a Carfax report.

2. Bring your Kelly Blue Book and do not pay over the blue book price, there will be folks that have no clue, they will run up the bid price because they have no idea what the auto is worth.

3. Find out what the buyers premium is for that particular government auto auction and remember to factor that into the equation, it is typically 5% to 10% of the winning bid. Most first time car auction buyers do not even know about the buyers premium.

4. Bring a vehicle inspection check off list with you. It is very easy to forget some crucial inspections. This is key, as you will be buying the seized auto AS IS!

5. Mismatched VIN tags, doors, trunk, hood, and dashboard should all match. Mismatched VIN tags usually means the vehicle has been wrecked or stolen.

6. If your vehicle history report shows that the auto has a rebuilt title, deduct 30%.

7. Check the odometer against your vehicle history report. An alternate method is to look at the brake pedals and see if the wear is congruent with the odometer. If the brake pedals look excessively worn compared to what the odometer reads, the odometer may have been tampered with.

8. Deduct for excessive mileage. The US Department of Transportation reports that the average car is driven 13,500 miles per year. Deduct roughly 15 cents per mile over that average.

9. Learn the government auto auction process, go to the auctions a few times and just observe and ask questions. This will prevent you from making costly mistakes on your first live auction.

10. Follow your gut! If a car, truck, or boat does not feel right, don't buy it. You will be right more times than not.

If you follow these 10 guidelines as well as performing a thorough vehicle inspection, you can get some real bargains at a government seized auto auction. Whether you are buying for yourself or to retail on the market remember to never fall in love with any one auto. There will always be another.