6 Steps For Jump Starting a Car

When your car's battery dies or loses its ability to crank the engine, you may need someone to give it a jump start. Doing so can provide your battery with the current it needs to turn the engine over and start your car. But, jump starting a car can be dangerous because of the hydrogen gas and acid contained within the battery. If it explodes, it can cause serious injury. Unfortunately, many car owners approach jump starting haphazardly and take it for granted. Below, I'll give you 6 tips and precautions that you should use to protect you and your car.

#1: Line 'Em Up

Align your cars in a way that places each car's battery as close to the other as possible. Then, place both cars in "Park". Also, make sure that the cars are not touching each other. The current can travel through the hull, potentially causing damage and injury.

#2: Know Your Signs

Car batteries have a positive post and a negative post. How those posts are connected to the cables is important. Before connecting anything, familiarize yourself with which post is which.

#3: Know Your Connections

Jumper cables are typically colored red and black. Those colors indicate which cable connects to which post. The red cable will be connected to the positive posts on the dead battery and the charged battery. The black cable will be connected to the negative post on the charged battery. The other end of the black cable will clamp down on the hull of the dead battery's car.

#4: Clear The Cable Path

Do not allow the clamps at the end of the cables to touch each other. Also, make sure that the cables are free of any moving parts. They can easily become caught in the fan, ripping the clamps off the posts.

#5: Good Battery First

Once the cables have been connected to the battery posts, start the engine of the car with the charged battery first. Let the engine idle for a few minutes so its charging system can take some of the load off the battery.

#6: Disconnect, Then Drive

After starting the car with the dead battery, disconnect the jumper cables after the engine turns over. In order for the battery to keep its charge, you'll need to drive it continuously for approximately 30 minutes.

Jump starting a car isn't complicated. You need to memorize which posts are positive and negative, and which cables are connected to which posts. Then, take a few minutes to follow the tips above, ensuring your safety and preventing damage to both vehicles.

Quick 4 tips

Connect one end of the Positive(+) cable to the Positive(+) post of the dead battery.






Connect the other end of the Positive(+) cable to the Positive(+) post of the good battery.







Connect one end of the Negative(-) cable to the Negative(-) post of the good battery.






Connect the other end of the Negative(-) cable to a good solid SHINY, NON PAINTED metal part of the engine on the dead car. Usually a giant shiny nut on the engine block will do. A painted, dirty, or oily nut will not work. You usually want to avoid placing the Negative(-) cable directly on the dead battery to minimize the chance for explosions. You should only use the ground post on the dead battery as a last resort. On this step you'll get a normal spark as you connect the ground and complete the circuit.

How to Fix a Scratch on Your Vehicle's Paint Job

There has more than likely been one time or another when you have experienced a scratch on the paint job of your vehicle. Did you know that there are ways that this can be repaired without the costly trip to the dealership or auto-body shop? The truth is, sooner or later - every car is going to get a scratch, so - use these tips to get rid of the unsightly marks.

If the car has been painted with enamel paint, than the vehicle repair may need professional attention, if not - than you can go ahead with these simple tips to repair a scratch on the surface of the vehicle. When repairing a scratch, it is important to lightly wash the surface of any material that would affect the bonding of the paint that is going to be applied to fix the scratch. Sometimes, when vehicles have been waxed, it decreases the ability for the paint to create a bond with the metal, creating an obvious paint line. A mild dish detergent or even a mild laundry detergent can be used to take off any wax, protecting or seal that is on the vehicle and could interrupt the scratch repair process.

Next, you will need to lightly sand the area where the vehicle is scratched with fine grained sand paper. When completing this step, it is most effective to do this by hand. This will ensure that the vehicle will not be over-sanded and damage the body of the vehicle, or even further damage the paint job of the vehicle. Never use an electric sander to repair a small scratch on the body or door of the vehicle; this will lead to unsightly marks being left after the scratch has been repaired. When sanding, go with the direction on the scratch, as this will not make it worse.

If there is rust near the scratch, than it can be easily removed with rust-cleaner and sandpaper treatment. When sanding, only be sure to grind down the area that is closest to the scratch. Before painting, tape-off the area of the scratch using newspaper, allowing a small cutout for the scratch. This will ensure that only the area required is painted. After all, the paint is more than likely not going to be the exact same tone, unless the vehicle is new and the exact paint is chosen.

How do you choose paint for your vehicle that is being repaired? Often, there is color swatches available from the dealership that the vehicle was purchased from, if not, than at the local auto-body supply store there should be a sufficient color. Remember, these colors may not go on completely flush with the current color. The more a vehicle has been exposed to the elements, the more the color fades - making it hard to determine the replacement color.

Next, the area should be sprayed with touch up paint, avoid brushing as it could cause unsightly marks to occur within the paint. Next, remove the paper and let the vehicle dry overnight to ensure it is not going to be effected by the elements.

By Brenda Williams

Security Car Alarms For Peace Of Mind

While many add-on purchases for automobiles are quite popular, the most significant addition for any vehicle is a security car alarm. With more than a million vehicles stolen each year, taking proactive steps to work against the possibility of theft is just common sense for all car owners. It stands to reason that a car owner will want to protect such a huge financial investment. Other than your home, your car is probably the most expensive thing you own. Doesn't it make sense to take care of it? Taking care of your car goes beyond changing the oil and keeping it clean. Really taking care of your car involves doing everything you can to keep it from being stolen.

Security car alarms serve as an affordable and effective way to keep you and your car from becoming the next car theft victims.

As a car owner, it is in your best interest to investigate security car alarms to find the best protection system for both your vehicle and your budget. If you think you can't afford a car alarm system, ask yourself if you can afford for your car to be stolen. That important question can put the minimal cost of a good alarm system in perspective.

What Are The Options?

There is a tremendous variety of choices when it comes to choosing a great car alarm. There are many different manufacturers, models and technological features for security car alarms. Virtually any budget can be accomodated with a security car alarm. The most economical model is not always the best choice for your vehicle's protection, though. Often just investing a few more dollars to get a higher quality system can have a huge impact on the overall effectiveness of the security car alarm system you choose.

Directed Electronics is an Industry Leader

Directed Electronics is one of the most established and best known names in security car alarms. This highly regarded and respected company is responsible for the two top security alarm brands, Python and Viper. The company's product mix also includes products from other major brands that have become a part of their organization, including Avital, Clifford, Autostart and AutoCommand. With more than twenty years in the security car alarm industry, the company's experience is clearly depicted by its impressive portfolio of vehicle security products.

Choose a Top Brand

Whether you choose a Directed Electronics product, or one from a different firm, it is a good idea to choose your unit from among the industry's top brands. Working with industry leaders helps to ensure the highest quality and most advanced electronics technologies for your security car alarm. You only want to buy a car alarm from a reputable company that specializes in vehicle security to ensure that your system has the latest technology. Developing the ability to discern the major brands of vehicle security products can help you make the best possible choices in automotive protection.

One of the most highly regarded security car alarm brands is Viper. Viper tends to be the system of choice for discerning expert drivers. Such discriminating consumers understand the value of a top notch alarm system because of the superior technologies employed to keep your vehicle constantly protected. Python is another great name in car security alarms, well-known for its unique technologies that include recognized names like Revenger, Failsafe, Stinger, Starter Kill and DoubleGuard. Both the Phython and Viper security alarm systems are focused on user convenience paired with extreme vehicle protection systems. It doesn't get much better than that.

Clifford is another respected brand. It has been protecting vehicles for more than twenty years, and has kept up with with technological advances like the MATRIX and G5 Technologies. These systems have the ability to instantly intimidate potential car thieves, which is crucial for maximum protection of our car.

Avital has also been around more than two decades with security car alarm products that are trusted by many, many consumers. Avital has a reputation for providing both outstanding security and remote starter systems.

These are not the only top notch choices for alarm systems. There are number of other reputable products that can meet your needs. Other top brands for security car alarms include Hornet, Valet, Ready Remote and AutoCommand, Astroflex, Automate Securit, and Autostart. Also, Merlin systems is a strong choice for motorcycle protection options. The benefits of security car alarm systems are greatly enhanced when you select yous from among these leading industry brands. It only makes sense to stick with recognized experts in security when protecting your own vehicle. The experience and expertise of top brand car alarm systems is the best tool for keeping your vehicle best protected against the threat of robbery.

By David Faulkner

Basic Vehicle Maintenance Tips For Safety On The Road

By Lydia Quinn

While practicing safer driving techniques on the road is a key to road safety, proper care and maintenance of your vehicle also plays a crucial role in getting you safely to your destination. After all, proper maintenance may mean the difference between getting home safely or breaking down in the middle of nowhere. Here are some essential car maintenance tips for keeping you and your car safe and healthy.

Check The Oil

It may seem obvious, but the importance of checking the oil regularly cannot be stressed enough. Checking it and changing it often is probably the single most important thing you can do to keep your car's engine in good condition.
Check Your Lights

This is one of the easier maintenance tasks, as you'll often find someone, hopefully not a policeman, will tell you that one of your tail lights isn't working properly. Having working head and tail lights is absolutely crucial to your safety. Have them fixed as soon as possible whenever one isn't working and avoid driving with one light out, if at all possible.

Check Your Tires

Check the tire pressure, but also the alignment often. Invest in a tire pressure gauge. Keep the tire pressure as your vehicle owner's manual recommends. Tire pressure affects many aspects of your car, including the amount of fuel it uses, the handling and performance, as well as the comfort and smoothness of the ride. Rotate your tires after every other oil change. Proper tire rotation helps your tires to wear more evenly. Also, keep a check on the tread wear of your tires and get new tires when needed.

Check Your Transmission Fluid

Check your transmission fluid according to your vehicle owner's manual recommendations. Top it up if needed, but do not over fill, as overfilling can damage your transmission.

Check The Engine Coolant

If you don't have enough coolant, you run the risk of overheating your engine and damaging it. Keep the coolant level topped up, especially if you're going on a long trip during warmer months.

Check The Belts

There are numerous belts in your vehicle, including the ones involved with the running of your alternator, your air conditioning and other parts. Be sure to check the rubber and the belt when you are performing your regular, under the hood maintenance.

Check Battery Contacts

Make sure the contacts on your battery terminal are clean. Often dirt and grime can build up on them, affecting performance.

Pay Attention To Warnings

Any modern car includes warning lights for various parts of the vehicle should the onboard computer detect something isn't working properly. When you see one of these lights go on, don't ignore it. Check your vehicle owner's manual to confirm what you need to check if it isn't obvious.

Be sure to read your vehicle owner's manual, the manufacturer will give you many recommendations for proper care and maintenance of your vehicle and often provide you with a checklist and recommendations for when and how to perform maintenance. Also, get yourself a copy of your vehicle's auto repair manual. If you need to do a repair yourself, these manuals will walk you through step by step, making it possible for even the least mechanical people to repair their own vehicle. If you have no confidence to make your own repairs, don't hesitate to take it to a professional.

Tips For Painting Your Motorcycle

Here are some instructions to help you paint your motorcycle yourself and save a bunch of money by doing so.

Materials Needed

• Reducer
• Plastic Filler
• Flowable Putty
• Primer and Hardeners
• Epoxy Sealer
• Base Color Paint
• Clear Coat/Hardener
• 80,120,400,600,1500,2000 grit wet/dry sandpaper

Homemade Paint Booth

To create a homemade paint booth in your garage or shed, here's what you need to do. First, put plastic over all of the walls. This not only protects your walls, but helps to reflect the light so you can see better. Once you have the plastic up, put fans in the windows. Tape around the edge of the fans to seal it to the plastic around them.

You need to make the paint booth as bright as possible so that you can see what you're doing. You can buy temporary fluorescent light fixtures inexpensively at Home Depot or Lowe's. These work great for this sort of project, and they are easy to hook up since they just plug into an outlet or extension cord.

Safety Precautions

There are some things you need to think about before you paint. First of all, paint fumes can be toxic, and they are also flammable. For these reasons, the place where you are painting should not be attached to your house.

If you wire your light fixtures in, make sure that you do it properly. Be sure that you have the covers over the light fixtures to protect them from the paint. You will also need to use a respirator while painting to protect you from the fumes. Make sure the respirator has the right kind of filter for the type of paint you are using.

Paint Equipment

In order to paint your own motorcycle you will need to have at least two paint guns. You will also need an air compressor, air hose and a regulator with a water trap. The first paint gun is for the primer and the second is for the base coat and clear coats.

Preparation

You need to check your motorcycle's fuel and oil tanks before you begin painting. Make sure they are pressure tested and free of leaks. You should start by sandblasting the metal parts on your motorcycle to remove the old paint. If you don't have a sandblaster, you can use sandpaper to sand them. Wipe down the parts you sanded with a non oil-based degreaser before you begin painting.

You will need to apply filler to the low spots. Mix it in small batches. It hardens quickly. Make sure you apply it as smoothly as possible. Sand it with 80 grit sandpaper after it dries, then check for any nicks or low spots. Fill them and repeat the sanding process. Once everything is smooth, it's time for the primer.

Apply two coats of epoxy primer. After it dries, use a spray bomb of black paint and spray it over the surface very lightly. This will make any defects in your fill work show. Use a light finishing putty to repair these trouble spots. Apply it in even coats, then use a foam sanding block wrapped in 80 grit sandpaper to smooth it, followed by 120 grit then 400 grit.

Now apply the last coat of primer. Once it is dry, use 400 grit sandpaper to roughen to surface a little so that the base coat will stick better. Apply a coat of epoxy sealer before applying the base coat. This will provide a better surface and help prevent bubbles.

Make sure you read the instructions for the paint you are using and allow the correct about of time between coats. Also, make sure you mix the paint properly and paint when the temperature is within the acceptable range, or in a temperature-controlled building.

Base Coat & Clear Coat

Apply your color according the instructions provided by the manufacturer, then apply a layer of clear coat. After the first coat of clear coat has dried, use 600 grit sandpaper to wet sand it smooth. Sand until the ridges that appear as you sand disappear.

If you are going to paint graphics on your motorcycle, paint the graphics next. Then apply another coat of clear. You may need two coats of clear over the graphics. Wet sand with 600 grit sandpaper between each coat of clear. After you sand the last clear coat with 600, sand it again with 1500. To make the finish even smoother, you can follow that up with 2000 grit.

Polishing

You will need a variable speed polisher with a buffing pad for the last step, and some polishing compound. The store where you buy your supplies can recommend a good polishing compound to use. Now all that is left to do is buff it out for the perfect mirror finish, then sit back and admire your work.

By Sarah H

10 Point Checklist to Help Your Car Pass Its MOT

Every year the motorist is faced with the ordeal of the MOT test, unless their car is less than three years old. The purpose of an MOT is to ensure the vehicle complies with road safety and environmental standards. Without it car owners are unable to obtain a tax disc for driving on public roads.

But what does the MOT tester look out for? Is it car tyres or fuel emissions? It can become expensive when the vehicle fails and needs to be re-tested. To help achieve a first time pass, this 10 point checklist highlights the main components that are included in an MOT test:

1. Brakes

The car's brakes are tested on a 'roller brake tester' to assess their condition, performance and efficiency. Brakes that 'lock up' when applied will fail. Other areas to watch out for are loose brake pedals and signs of leaking brake fluid.

2. Doors and Mirrors

Ensure the doors open and close correctly, from the inside and the outside of the vehicle. Car locks need to work adequately. Wing and rear view mirrors must be present and in good condition. A cracked wing mirror will result in a fail.

3. Exhaust System and Emissions

The car will need to pass specific exhaust emission requirements, depending on its age and fuel type. The exhaust system must not have holes or leaks, often caused by rust.

4. Car Bodywork

Excessive rust corrosion, damage or sharp edges on the car's bodywork will result in a fail.

5. Wheels and Car Tyres

The tread depth on a car tyre must be a minimum of 1.6mm. The car tyre needs to be the correct type for the vehicle and have no signs of excessive wear or damage. It is recommended to consult a car tyres specialist to check this. Ensure all the wheel nuts are present as any missing will result in a fail. Spare tyres are not tested.

6. Windscreen, Wipers and Washer

The wiper blades need to be in good condition and the windscreen washer must contain fluid. The windscreen cannot have any large cracks and must have clear visibility.

7. Lights and Indicators

All lights and indicators need to work correctly, including the hazard lights. Check that the headlamps dip to the correct angle and are not loose.

8. Seats and seatbelts

Ensure all seats are secure in the upright position. It is compulsory for seatbelts to be fitted in the front and back of a car. They must be the correct type and in good, working condition.

9. Steering, suspension and horn

All three need to be in good condition and work correctly. Make sure the horn is the right type for the vehicle. Ensure the wheels are correctly aligned and the car tyre pressures are correct, as these can affect the vehicle's steering.

10. Registration Plate and Vehicle Identification Number

The registration plate needs to be in the correct format, legible and in good condition. Every car used after the 1st August 1980 must have its vehicle identification number clearly displayed.

Lights, brakes, suspension and car tyres are the four most common reasons why a car will fail its MOT. This checklist is intended as a guide to improve your cars chance of passing. If in any doubt we recommend consulting your local garage before taking the MOT test.

By James Todman

[James Todman is a freelance web content editor working with Merityre, a leading UK independent car tyres retailer.]

How to Repair Chips and Scratches - Properly

Scratches and chips on the paintwork of your car can be an eye-sore and can have a detrimental affect on the resale value of your car. To properly repair chips and scratches on the paintwork of your car you need to get together the following items to do the job:

• Touchup or color matched paint
• Compatible primer
• Organic cleaner
• Solvent
• 3M Imperial Hand Glaze
• Sanding Block 2000 grit
• Car wash
• 600 grit wet/dry sandpaper
• Round un-dyed wooden toothpicks
• Large lightweight cardboard boxes (large shoe box or bigger)
• Several 100% cotton towels
• New pencils with unused erasers
• Rubber glue
• Several heavy clean plastic cups
• Roll of quality masking tape

Paint chip repair is a learned skill and should be practiced on an area of the car that is not readily visible. Don't try repairing the larger panels such as the hood first.

Test all cleaners or solvents on the paint prior to usage. Apply a little cleaner or solvent to a cloth and rub it onto a patch on the car not clearly visible. If you do not get any color on the rag, then the cleaner/solvent should be safe for the paint. If you do get color on the rag, then you need to try another solvent.

REPAIR STEPS:

Step 1

At least 24 hours before you want to start, use the rubber glue to attach small 600 grit sandpaper circles (the diameter of the eraser) onto several new pencils. The eraser must be unused and flat on top.

Step 2

Wash the car with a quality car wash and dry thoroughly.

Step 3

Paint chips are generally of two different types. The worst case has exposed the bare metal, while the less severe has left the original primer paint still intact. Clean the area of the chip thoroughly with a degreaser. If there is rust on the exposed metal, clean off with the pencil eraser. Use a toothpick to gently probe the area and make sure that the edges of the chip are secure and not waiting to fall off and ruin your work.

This is an optional step! If you do not feel comfortable with sanding or your paint is one of the new clear-coated finishes, you should jump to step number 5.

Take the new pencil/sandpaper tool you made earlier and dip it into clean water and put a few drops of water on the chip area.
*SLIGHTLY* rough up the chip and a small portion of the surrounding paint. Lightly turning the pencil will rough up an area the diameter of the eraser and this should be more than enough. Keep the roughed up area as small as possible, the object is to give the new paint approximately 1 mm of old paint to "grab" around the perimeter of the chip and not dig scratches.

Step 4

Move onto the next chip and repeat the above. Depending upon the amount of time available, you may wish to tackle 10-20 chips at one time. Try to stay within the area that may be covered by your box(es).

Step 5

When finished sanding all your chips you are tackling at this time apply a small amount of Alcohol or Enamel Reducer to a rag and wipe each chip and surrounding area to remove any sanding dust and grease/oils. Use additional solvent and new area of the rag for each chip. Allow to dry (these are highly volatile and will evaporate quickly with no residue).

Step 6

If the original primer is intact, and "pencil sanding" does not disturb the primer, then skip the next step and go directly to painting
(step 9).

Step 7

Make sure that the chip and surrounding area is clean. If not, reclean with the organic cleaner, Alcohol or Enamel Reducer. Pour or spray a small amount of primer into a clean plastic cup. Dip the point of a wooden toothpick into the primer to get a thin coating on the first 1-2 mm of the toothpick. If there is a blob on the end, gently scrape it back into the cup. Place the tip of the toothpick against the center of the chip and allow capillary action to literally flow a *THIN* coat of the primer into the depression of the chip.

Move onto the next prepared chip.

If you have finished priming all your prepared chips before two hours are up, cover with a box, taped down with masking tape. The key is to allow the first coat of primer to dry at least two hours.

Dispose of your cup and start with a fresh cup and toothpick. Apply another thin coat of primer to each repair that needs primer. Priming is completed when no metal is visible and the level of the primer is below the level of the surrounding paint. This is important! Cover and allow dry for two hours or until dry.

Step 8

Apply a small amount of Alcohol or Enamel Reducer to a rag and wipe the chip and surrounding area to remove any sanding dust and grease/oils. Allow to dry. Repeat for all the chips you intend to repair.

Step 9

If you are using a touchup, shake the bottle thoroughly. If you are using color-matched paint, mix thoroughly and pour a small amount into a clean plastic cup.

Step 10

Dip the point of a new toothpick into the paint to get a thin coating on the first 1-2 mm of the toothpick. If there is a blob on the end, gently scrape it back into the bottle. Place the tip of the toothpick against the center of the chip and allow capillary action to literally flow the paint into the depression of the chip. Repeat for each chip. The key is not to use too much paint. Do not re-dip the toothpick. Use only the amount that will flow from one dip.

Step 11

Cover with your paint box and allow to dry 2 hours and repeat 8-12 times till the depression is filled with paint and bulges slightly upward and covers the roughed up area with a thin coating of paint. The first 2-3 coats may not completely hide the primer. This is fine because you have many more coats to go.

Step 12

The paint application is completed when the new paint bulges slightly upward (a fraction of a millimeter) and had covered the roughed up area with a thin coat of new paint. Allow the paint to dry for at least a week.

Step 13

The touchup paint has been applied to the surface and allowed to dry for at least 1 week, and resembles a minute mound on the flat plane of the existing paint.

The object is to remove the mound and make the surface of the paint one continuous flat plane. The Finesse Block offers the ability to gently remove only the high spot of the repair. Unlike sandpaper or polish on a rag, the five usable sides of the block are flat and act like a "wood plane" to remove only the elevated areas of the repair. The 2000 grit will not leave scratches.

Step 14

Soak the Finesse Block in clean water for 24 hours prior to use. Put a small drop of car wash on the chip repair. This acts as a lubricant for the sanding block. Then gently "plane" the high spot on the paint. "Plane" in one direction (usually back to front - drawing the block towards me). If the block dries out, re-wet and continue use.

When the new and existing paints are blended (smoothed to the flat plane) to your satisfaction, clean the area using a quality car wash and lots of water and then use a quality glaze to restore the high gloss finish. I prefer 3M Imperial Hand Glaze. Don't use a machine on your car.

Step 15

When applying either a glaze or a wax, apply to your soft cotton cloth or applicator pad and work in one direction only. Circles are many times the cause of "swirl marks." A front-to-back, back-to-front motion (the way the air flows over the car) will help minimize swirl marks or at least make them less visible. Buff out with a soft cotton cloth. If it looks good, wax with a quality hard wax and you are done.

Step 16

Tip for applying wax. If you are using a quality Carnauba based wax, try applying it with your fingers instead of a pad or cloth. Hold your fingers together and use your fingertips as an applicator pad. The tactile feedback from your fingers will tell you when the wax has been worked into the paint. If grit should lodge under your fingers, you will know immediately and not grind it into the paint. A pad will not allow this tactile feedback.

A circular motion of the pad will make a 360-degree swirl mark. All marks on paint are most visible at a 90 degree viewing angle. Thus the front-to-back marks are most visible from the sides, whereas a circle stands out from any viewing angle.

By Bill Bailey

How to Properly Test Drive a Car

When you have finally picked out the car you want, it is time for the all important test drive. If the seller will not let you drive the car before you buy it, walk away. They are hiding something otherwise. Make it very clear that you want plenty of time behind the wheel before you buy it. If you can't fully test it more than just one trip around the block, it is time to walk away. What should you look for on your drive though?

When you drive the car, the first thing to begin to look for is to see if the car slightly drifts to one side of the road or the other. This could be either just a simple alignment problem, or it could be signs of a very serious frame alignment problem. When driving in a straight line the car should also not vibrate or shimmy since that are signs of problems as well. The wheels should also not vibrate when turning slightly right or left rather like you would do when changing lanes.

To test the brakes you should go find a large empty road or perhaps a parking lot. Just make sure no one is following behind you. You will want to get the car up to about 40 miles per hour and then stomp on the brake firmly. The car should begin to stop smoothly and not pull hard to one side or the other. If the car has antilock braking systems you should feel the brake vibrate under your foot as the ABS works. If the car does not have ABS then the pedal should remain stiff underneath your foot while braking.

The parking brake should be tested as well. To test the parking brake you will want to drive up a hill and then brake. Once a stop, put the car in neutral and pull the emergency brake. Take your foot off the normal brake. If the car does not move, you have a working E-brake. If it doesn't, well then you have a problem and should begin braking regularly.

While on that hill, you will want to test the cars acceleration. Go to the bottom of the hill and stop. Once at standstill, step on the gas. The car should go up the hill without any problem, random surges in power or funny sounds coming from the engine. This same test should be done on a flat area, but this time, flat out floor it. If the car does not accelerate hard, smoothly or makes crazy noises, then you probably will want to not consider it.

Another easy problem to check for is the Engine overheating. By getting out on the highway and cruising for more then ten minutes, you will be able to tell if the engine overheats as well as being able to tell if the car performs at highway speeds. Once you get off the highway, find somewhere to park for 5 minutes and turn the AC all the way up. This is to simulate being stuck in traffic. The engine should not overheat during either of these activities.

By Jeff Hendrix

Parallel Parking Mistakes During the Road Test

Parallel parking is one of the hardest, if not the hardest, skill to master for the driving test. It involves backing up, coordination, understanding the proper use of side mirrors, and precise distance estimation. When these don't join together well, a bad parking comes up, which sometimes lead to a bad test result.

One tiny mistake is not signaling before beginning to park. Before any parallel parking the student should signal to let other drivers know what he is doing. However, some students forget to signal. It is only a minor error, but it can make the difference between a pass and a fail.

Another mistake, much bigger, is wrong distance estimation. Instead of being close to the car the student parks behind, he stands far from it. This often leads the parking into a dead end, since he needs more parking space for that, and if there is also a car behind, the parking is doomed to fail.

Hitting the curb is a major mistake in many areas and an automatic test failure. When backing up, some students don't know when to turn their wheel, so they get too close to the curb. When they do turn the steering wheel it's already too late, and the car hits the curb. When this happens, the test is almost always a failure.

There is a more serious mistake than hitting the curb, and that is hitting a car, or even worse, a pedestrian. This happens when the examinee doesn't look back or just stares forward. It is a definite failing score in the test and a very bad feeling for the student. If the student hits a pedestrian, it can also be dangerous.

Not looking back, even without hitting anything, is another serious error during the driving test. When backing up, the student should look in the rear window and the mirrors. Failing to do so is also a reason for the examiner to fail the student on the spot.

Parallel parking requires many hours of practice. In some places, it is not a required skill for the parking test, but any driver should be able to do, especially if he lives or works in a big city. The practice must be with the proper guidance, or else any student would face hardships when practicing this skill.

By Nadav Snir

Tips For Painting Your Motorcycle

Here are some instructions to help you paint your motorcycle yourself and save a bunch of money by doing so.

Materials Needed

• Reducer
• Plastic Filler
• Flowable Putty
• Primer and Hardeners
• Epoxy Sealer
• Base Color Paint
• Clear Coat/Hardener
• 80,120,400,600,1500,2000 grit wet/dry sandpaper

Homemade Paint Booth

To create a homemade paint booth in your garage or shed, here's what you need to do. First, put plastic over all of the walls. This not only protects your walls, but helps to reflect the light so you can see better. Once you have the plastic up, put fans in the windows. Tape around the edge of the fans to seal it to the plastic around them.

You need to make the paint booth as bright as possible so that you can see what you're doing. You can buy temporary fluorescent light fixtures inexpensively at Home Depot or Lowe's. These work great for this sort of project, and they are easy to hook up since they just plug into an outlet or extension cord.

Safety Precautions

There are some things you need to think about before you paint. First of all, paint fumes can be toxic, and they are also flammable. For these reasons, the place where you are painting should not be attached to your house.

If you wire your light fixtures in, make sure that you do it properly. Be sure that you have the covers over the light fixtures to protect them from the paint. You will also need to use a respirator while painting to protect you from the fumes. Make sure the respirator has the right kind of filter for the type of paint you are using.

Paint Equipment

In order to paint your own motorcycle you will need to have at least two paint guns. You will also need an air compressor, air hose and a regulator with a water trap. The first paint gun is for the primer and the second is for the base coat and clear coats.

Preparation

You need to check your motorcycle's fuel and oil tanks before you begin painting. Make sure they are pressure tested and free of leaks. You should start by sandblasting the metal parts on your motorcycle to remove the old paint. If you don't have a sandblaster, you can use sandpaper to sand them. Wipe down the parts you sanded with a non oil-based degreaser before you begin painting.

You will need to apply filler to the low spots. Mix it in small batches. It hardens quickly. Make sure you apply it as smoothly as possible. Sand it with 80 grit sandpaper after it dries, then check for any nicks or low spots. Fill them and repeat the sanding process. Once everything is smooth, it's time for the primer.

Apply two coats of epoxy primer. After it dries, use a spray bomb of black paint and spray it over the surface very lightly. This will make any defects in your fill work show. Use a light finishing putty to repair these trouble spots. Apply it in even coats, then use a foam sanding block wrapped in 80 grit sandpaper to smooth it, followed by 120 grit then 400 grit.

Now apply the last coat of primer. Once it is dry, use 400 grit sandpaper to roughen to surface a little so that the base coat will stick better. Apply a coat of epoxy sealer before applying the base coat. This will provide a better surface and help prevent bubbles.

Make sure you read the instructions for the paint you are using and allow the correct about of time between coats. Also, make sure you mix the paint properly and paint when the temperature is within the acceptable range, or in a temperature-controlled building.

Base Coat & Clear Coat

Apply your color according the instructions provided by the manufacturer, then apply a layer of clear coat. After the first coat of clear coat has dried, use 600 grit sandpaper to wet sand it smooth. Sand until the ridges that appear as you sand disappear.

If you are going to paint graphics on your motorcycle, paint the graphics next. Then apply another coat of clear. You may need two coats of clear over the graphics. Wet sand with 600 grit sandpaper between each coat of clear. After you sand the last clear coat with 600, sand it again with 1500. To make the finish even smoother, you can follow that up with 2000 grit.

Polishing

You will need a variable speed polisher with a buffing pad for the last step, and some polishing compound. The store where you buy your supplies can recommend a good polishing compound to use. Now all that is left to do is buff it out for the perfect mirror finish, then sit back and admire your work.

By Sarah H

Top 5 Cheap(ish) Fast Cars!

This article will bring together 5 fast road cars that YOU could own... It isn't a definitive list, but a group of fast cars from all kinds of different classes that won't require a lottery win. This is only a handful of similar cars so don't forget to shop around.

1. Ford Mustang - Believe it or not the mustang first arrived in 1964, making a cameo appearance in Goldfinger. More recently in 1994 Ford began production of the forth generation, with the Mustang GT available as a coupe model V8 outputting 260 horses and producing a 0-60 time somewhere around 6 seconds. Of course if you're not worried about pricing issues than naturally you'll want the limited edition Cobra GT, or even the Ford Mustang Shelby GT... She's a beast of a muscle car.
2. Golf Gti (MKIII) The MK3 arrived in 1991, it had a larger chassis than previous versions (now weighs over a ton) and this time was built to last, but boy aint it fun?! You can grab one of these cars with a 2.0L 16v engine that will punch out 115BHP. This will do 0-60 in 8.7 seconds and a top speed of 124mph, not too shabby when you can get a high spec version for less than £2000 now a days...
3. Honda civic type R Although the new Civic is more weighty than its predecessor, its still very quick for its class, it has a 0-62mph time of 6.6 seconds. The top speed hasn't changed and remains at 146MPH. The suspension set-up has also been changed, Honda claim it's now more responsive and rigid. You can pick one up for around £9000, don't forget though this is new and you're paying for quality here. Read the full review of the Honda Civic.
4. Nissan 300zx The Nissan 300zx is no longer a production car, but you can easily pick up a good used model for under £10,000 and even reaching as low as £5000. Performance wise the twin turbo packs 276BHP, which gets you from 0 to 60 in 6 seconds and with a top speed of around 155mph - it will please. Read the full review of the Nissan 300zx.
5. Daihatsu Charade Gtti This truly is a little gem. It's the fastest and most powerful 1litre production car EVER. It produces 100BHP and goes from 0-60 in an unbelievable 7.5 seconds. This thing will keep up with your 318i, your Golf Gti and your Escort RS turbo. Granted, its not a family car - it's a pocket rocket. You can pick one up in a good condition for under £2000 and don't worry its very economical too in comparison to your standard sports car! Impress your mates and buy this...

By Tony O'donnell

Dynamometer History - A Timeline of Innovation

Dynamometers have been a part of performance measurement since the days when the presence of horsepower was usually accompanied by four hooves and a tail. This versatile tool is applied around the world, as companies like Taylor Dynamometer build on past innovations with new breakthroughs in data gathering and system control technology.

1828 Gaspard de Prony invented the de Prony Brake, one of the earliest dynamometers

1838 Charles Babbage, known to historians as the Father of the Computer, introduces a dynamometer car to measure the pulling power of English railroad locomotives

1877 William Froude of Great Britain invents the first hydraulic dynamometer, with the first commercial models produced in 1881

1921 Professor E.V. Collins of Iowa State College develops a draft horse dynamometer, used to measure a horse's capability to pull the era's heavy metal farm implements

1930 Using designs pioneered through a collaboration with Rudolph Diesel, John Taylor forms the Taylor Dynamometer and Machine Company to produce engine dynamometers

1931 Martin and Anthony Winther introduce the first eddy current dynamometer

Throughout the past seven decades of continued dynamometer development, Taylor has maintained its status as a leader in advancing power measurement technology. Contact us to learn about the latest developments in dynamometers and engine diagnostics, or to inquire about a specific dyno product or application.

How Dynamometers Work
All dynamometers perform the same essential function, measuring the torque, rotational speed and power output of a combustion engine, electric motor or other power source. While the outcome is the same, many technologies are used to achieve the desired result.

Two Main Types
Most dynamometers can be placed within two distinct categories. Engine dynamometers are designed for coupling directly to the driveshaft of an engine under test, and chassis dynamometers measure the power output of a drive train by using rollers turned by the tires of a vehicle under test. In addition to the two traditional types, Taylor offers a line of portable dynamometers that attach directly to the flywheel of an engine. This allows accurate measurement of engine output without removal of an engine from its drive train.

A Variety of Designs
The work of handling and measuring input power is performed by instruments with a variety of different designs:

• Eddy current dynamometers present a measurable resistant force to engines under test by harnessing the magnetic flux between fixed and rotating electromagnets spun by the engine under test.

• A variant of the eddy current design, powder dynamometers create flux through the application of a fine magnetic powder between the rotor and coil

• Electric motor/generator types are a variation on the adjustable speed drive, using solid state components rather than the physical relationship between electromagnets to create measurable power transfer

• Fan, hydraulic and water brakes use air, water or hydraulic fluid to deliver physical resistance to the power applied by an engine or motor under test. The amount of resulting force absorbed by the fluid is measured to provide an indication of the power applied to the system

The best resource for details on dynamometer function and application is a Taylor Dynamometer application specialist. Contact us for full details on putting the latest in dynamometer technology to work in your application.

Eddy Current Dynamometer History
The story of the eddy current dynamometer is a tale of two Danish boys from Wisconsin, growing up in a time when innovations required an inquiring mind and a machine shop rather than a supercomputer and a doctoral degree. Martin Phillip Winther arrived at Ellis Island, New York in 1892 from his native Denmark. The family ultimately settled in Kenosha Wisconsin, where Martin and his American-born brother Anthony began their working lives as laborers at the Jeffry Company, makers of the Rambler automobile. At Jeffry, the brothers were involved in the engineering of a four-wheel-drive truck, which led them to break away and found the Winther Motor and Truck Company in 1917. While Winther Motor and Truck made several types of motor vehicles (including light trucks, fire engines and a sporty automobile) the firm's chief product was innovation. Beginning around 1920, Martin and Anthony Winther were granted patents for almost 300 mechanical devices. These included the first successful air conditioning system for Pullman railroad cars, a four-wheel-drive post hole digger for AT&T, the first induction coupling, a magnetic clutch, a cycle-car, variable-speed transmission gears, as well as a giant press drive, brakes and couplings for the oil field industry.

Although prolific, only one of the Winther brothers' inventions proved to have lasting impact. They are chiefly known for the invention of the eddy current dynamometer, a type of high speed, high power dynamometer capable of far surpassing the products then available in terms of power handling capability. The eddy current dyno was able to turn fast enough to test the turbine engines used in aircraft, wind tunnels and high speed automobiles of the day. The eddy current dynamometer was the chief product of the Dynamatic Corporation, founded by the Winthers in 1932. The firm was successful for many years both before and after the brothers sold their interest to Eaton Corporation in 1946. Variations on the eddy current design still serve as the basis for dynamometers today. The designs continued use is a testament to the ingenuity of two men who never rose above the eighth grade in formal education, yet parlayed their considerable on-the-job insight into a lasting legacy of technical achievement.

By Lauren Peters

Pursuing a Motorcycle Accident Claim

You can ride safer by following these quick tips on motorcycle safety:

1. Always assume that you and your motorcycle are totally invisible to other drivers.
2. Leave plenty of space in front and back and to the sides from all other vehicles.
3. Beware of motorists turning left in front of you at intersections.
4. Never drink or take drugs and try to ride a motorcycle.
5. Avoid riding at night, especially late Saturday night and early Sunday when drunken drivers may be on the road.
6. Beware of taking curves that you can't see around. A parked truck or a patch of sand may be awaiting you.
7. Do not try to 'get even' with another rider or motorist by giving in to road rage.
8. If someone is tailgating you, either speed up to open more space or pull over and let them pass.
9. Take a motorcycle safety course to learn what to look for to avoid accidents.
10. Wear protective clothing and a helmet.

There is no New York No-Fault insurance available to motorcycle riders. This means that in the event of injury in a motorcycle accident, private health insurance must pay the bills. If the rider wins a lawsuit, these bills must usually be paid back to the health insurance carrier. If there is no health insurance available, the issue of medical bills and paying for medical care becomes complicated, indeed. Consult an experienced accident and personal injury attorney.

As a lawyer and rider who has held a motorcycle license for many years, I have some definite thoughts on this topic. But I'd like you to "cram down" some statistics about motorcycle safety, which relate to accidents and injuries, and which I find fascinating:

1. Approximately 3/4 of motorcycle accidents involve collision with another vehicle; most often a passenger automobile.
2. Approximately 1/4 of motorcycle accidents are single vehicle accidents involving the motorcycle colliding with the roadway or some fixed object in the environment.
3. Vehicle failure accounts for less than 3% of motorcycle accidents, and most of those are single vehicle accidents where control is lost due to a puncture flat.
4. In single vehicle accidents, motorcycle rider error is present as the cause about 2/3 of the time, with the typical error being a slideout and fall due to overbraking, or running wide on a curve due to excess speed or under-cornering.
5. Roadway defects (pavement ridges, potholes, etc.) are the accident cause in 2% of accidents; animal involvement causes 1% of accidents.
6. In multiple vehicle accidents, the driver of the other vehicle violates the motorcycle right-of-way and causes the accident 2/3 of the time.
7. Drivers inability to recognize motorcycles in traffice is the main source of motorcycle collisions. The driver of the other vehicle involved in collision with the motorcycle does not see the motorcycle before the collision, or does not see the motorcycle until too late to avoid the collision.
8. Deliberate hostile action by a motorist against a motorcycle rider is a rare accident cause.
9. The most frequent accident type is the motorcycle proceeding straight and the automobile making a left turn in front of the oncoming motorcycle.
10. Intersections are the most likely place for the motorcycle accident, with the other vehicle violating the motorcycle right-of-way, and often violating traffic controls.
11. Weather is not a factor in 98% of motorcycle accidents.
12. Most motorcycle accidents involve a short trip associated with shopping, errands, friends, entertainment or recreation, and the accident is likely to happen close to the place the trip began.
13. The view of the motorcycle or other vehicle involved in an accident is limited by glare or obstructed by other vehicles in almost 2 of multiple vehicle accidents.
14. Visibility of the motorcycle is a critical factor in multiple vehicle accidents, and accidents are significantly reduced by the use of motorcycle headlamps (on in daylight) and the wearing of high visibility yellow, orange or bright red jackets.
15. Fuel system leaks and spills are present after 62% of motorcycle crashes. This means that there is usually a fire hazard.
16. Significantly overrepresented in accidents are motorcycle riders between the ages of 16 and 24; motorcycle riders between the ages of 30 and 50 are significantly underrepresented. Although the majority of accident-involved motorcycle riders are male (96%), female motorcycles riders are significantly overrepresented in accidents.
17. Motorcycle riders involved in accidents are essentially without training; 92% are self-taught or learned from family or friends. Motorcycle rider training experience reduces accident involvement and reduces injury in the event of accidents.
18. Almost 1/2 of fatal accidents show alcohol involvement.
19. Motorcycle riders in those accidents have difficulty avoiding the collision. Most riders overbrake and skid the rear wheel, and underbrake the front wheel, greatly reducing the ability to slow down and avoid the accident. In the presence of alcohol, the ability to countersteer and swerve are just about absent.
20. The typical motorcycle accident allows the motorcyclist just less than 2 seconds to avoid the collision.
21. Motorcycle modifications such as those associated with the semi-chopper or cafe racer are definitely overrepresented in accidents.
22. The likelihood of injury is extremely high in motorcycle accidents - 98% of multiple vehicle collisions and 96% of single vehicle accidents result in some kind of injury to the motorcycle rider; 45% result in more than a minor injury.
23. Half of the injuries to motorcycle riders are to the ankle-foot, lower leg, knee, and thigh-upper leg.
24. Crash bars are not an effective injury countermeasure; the reduction of injury to the ankle-foot is balanced by increase of injury to the thigh-upper leg, knee, and lower leg.
25. The use of heavy boots, jacket, gloves, etc., is effective in preventing or reducing abrasions and lacerations, which are frequent but rarely severe injuries.
26. Speed, alcohol involvement and motorcycle size increade the injury severity.
27. Seventy-three percent of accident-involved motorcycle riders use no eye protection, and it is likely that the wind on their unprotected eyes contributes to impairment of vision which delays hazard detection.
28. Approximately 50% of the motorcycle riders in traffic use safety helmets but only 40% wear helmets at the time of their accident.
29. Voluntary safety helmet use by accident-involved motorcycle riders was lowest for untrained, uneducated, young motorcycle riders on hot days and short trips.
30. The most deadly injuries to motorcycle accident victims are injuries to the chest and head.
31. The use of the safety helmet is the single critical factor in the prevention or reduction of head injury.
32. Safety helmet use does not decrease the riders ability to hear or see, and causes no fatigue or loss of attention; no element of accident causation is related to helmet use.
33. Helmeted riders and passengers showed significantly lower head and neck injury for all types of injury, at all levels of injury severity.
34. The increased coverage of the full facial coverage helmet increases protection, and significantly reduces face injuries.
35. There is no increase in neck injury by wearing a safety helmet; helmeted riders have fewer neck injuries than unhelmeted riders.

By Gary E Rosenberg

Diagnosing a high performance modified engine is a hard work and it is plenty of secrets

A very common way to diagnose and tune-up a modified or racing engine is by looking the spark plug firing tips because its appearance can reveal if your engine has a problem that need correcting. But you need to be aware that the same spark plug firing tips appearance can have different root causes:

A) Mixture or timing misadjustment or other possible mechanical troubles.

B) High performance modifications that increase the horse-power level, augmenting therefore the combustion chambers temperature and stress at high RPM.

C) Colder racing spark plugs fouling at idle, stop and go, and lower speeds.

Unfortunately, for each spark plug firing tip appearance, the traditional spark plug troubleshooting charts only are considering as possible trouble causes the first list A.

But in high performance modified engines and racing applications, the list B is usually the main cause of the higher temperatures in the combustion chambers that generates overheating, pre-ignition and detonation; and the list C is the main cause of fouled spark plugs that generates misfiring, hard starting, black smoke and great loose of power.

In spite of that fact, carefully review of almost all the troubleshooting charts, reveals that the causes of the B and C lists are not included, or at least mentioned. However when talking on the high performance field, these causes are with extreme frequency the main guilty of most of the troublesome spark plug firing tip appearance.

As result of this lack of information, never was sufficiently clear that the undesirable spark plug firing tip might be attributable to an inappropriate spark plugs heat range. Either never was mentioned strongly enough the transcendent importance that have to customize the spark plugs heat range, so it was never taken into account.

Forasmuch it should not surprise that even experienced engine builders, modifiers and tuners often confuse an overheated spark plug caused by the new level of power at high RPM, with a lean mixture trouble, because the appearances of its firing tip look exactly the same; making wrong diagnostics, and enriching the mixture, instead of customize the heat range to the engine's power.

And worst, when the heat excess level provokes pre-ignition or detonation (which is very frequent due to the high levels of demands that the racing engines are submitted) most of the times the traditional troubleshooting charts are guiding them erroneously to believe that their engines are having some mechanical troubles and therefore they are engaging unnecessarily in repair nonexistent mechanical problems, like cooling system failure: or to suppose that it is owed to a mixture or timing misadjustment, consequently enriching the mixture and/or retarding the ignition timing, arriving inclusive to decrease the boost pressure, the nitrous flow, the compression ratio, etc. losing by this way tons of power, instead of the unique right, simplest, fastest and cheapest solution that is to customizing the spark plug heat range to the huge power, stress and heat achieved at high RPM.

Due to the same absence of information, they can not either distinguish when the cold racing spark plugs are fouling at idle, stop and go, and lower speeds, from when has a rich mixture, because both have the same carbon fouled firing tips appearance; and what is still worst, they can not either distinguish when the colder racing spark plugs for heavily modified engines are fouling at idle, stop and go, and lower speeds, from when the engines has worn-out piston rings and cylinders, because both have the same oil fouled firing tips appearance.

Those wrong diagnostics are leading them to wrong solutions: trying to adjust unnecessarily the air-fuel mixture when they see carbon fouled spark plugs, and being bottled without need in overhauling the engine to repair mechanical troubles that do not exist, when they see oil fouled spark plugs, instead of avoiding idle and lower speeds in engines built for run at high RPM, or to customize the spark plug heat range for these type of show off usage.

Also when the traditional spark plug troubleshooting charts mention "wrong heat range" or "check for the correct heat range", because it is not enough clear, a great majority of they are quite familiarized with the concept that "wrong heat range" only could be a spark plug different than the stock or the suggested by the manufacturers, ignoring that they should switch the spark plug's heat range.
And, as if was not sufficient with this confusion with the information, until very short time did not exist method neither tool to perform the important task of customize the heat range of the sparkplug, according to any specific high performance modification level, so, the election of the aftermarket sparkplug that best works at any RPM load or stress, was left to the intuition, experience and the criterion of each technician, who only had the unfriendly guesswork of never-ending trial and error proofs, testing different spark plug sets, with inexact and risky results.

But the racing field is no place for mistakes.

Is for that reason that the traditional troubleshooting charts are not the most adequate guide to properly and accurately diagnosing your expensive high performance modified or racing engine, risking you to lose your engine and that is still worse, to lose the race.

What is then the right way to correctly diagnose the spark plugs in the high performance field?
Be sure that, if you are not having real mechanic problems, you must check the heat range of the installed spark plugs, and select the replacement with the colder heat range better suited to your exactly high performance modification level.

Is it a hard work? It depends. If you are using the right tool, that allows you to see, confirm, verify, select, and choose the exact heat range you must install in your high performance modified engine, it is a piece of cake!

Of course if not..... it could be unending, unfriendly, blind and risky guesswork.

You decide!

By Elena Maria Db Orsos

Motorcycles for 16 Year Olds

Motorcycles are great vehicles to get you around town. They have low insurance costs, they are cheap to operate, and they can get you to places quicker because of their smaller size. However, motorcycles are not for everybody and can be dangerous or deadly in the hands of a wrong person.

When a 16 year old has recently acquired his driving permit, there are many things to learn and many experiences to gain on the topic of driving. Some of these things can be taught, but others will only come with age. A motorcycle is not the best mode of transportation when a person is just beginning to get experience in driving. Driving is more than just pointing your wheels in the direction you want to go. Driving is about self-control and obedience, both of which may not exist exist in a 16 year old. It takes time and experience before all immature driving behaviors and tendencies can be suppressed by a first time driver, yielding to common sense and safe driving practices. Some of these tendencies include the urge to stunt, race, speed, and in general, show off. There is no room for behaviour like this on a motorcycle because there is so little margin for error and the effects are usually devastating should something go wrong. At least a car gives you some protection should you screw up.

There is also the need to get used to driving in all kinds of traffic conditions and being adaptive to those conditions. There are things like road markers and signs that must be obeyed. As a new rider, you have to understand all the rules of the road and react to them accordingly. You also have to drive attentively and defensively, always being prepared for what the other driver may or may not do. There is also the issue of driving according to the environments, road conditions, and other random and uncontrollable factors. Driving is not a simple task and requires ample concentration. A young driver only has to learn how to drive a manual transmission car in traffic to understand the complexities of driving. A motorcycle is 10 times more demanding on your concentration than a car with a manual transmission. If you didn't already know, 99.5% of motorcycles only come with a manual transmission.

When motorcycling, all limbs of your body are being used to control the bike. Your left hand works the clutch while your right hand manages the front brakes. Your left foot changes the gears on your bike, while your right foot modulates the rear brakes. In addition, there are other controls that must be done by the rider at any given time which includes turning on the signals, turning off the signals, powering the headlights, switching the fuel reserve tank, and much more. Finally, a motorcycle is not enclosed in a metal cage. In a car, if you make a mistake and get into an accident, that metal cage will protect you. In a motorcycle, you get only one chance. Screw it up and you are done.

There have been many new motorcycle riders that have come up to me for feedback or opinion on riding motorcycles and selecting the right bike to learn. I have always turned young drivers away from motorcycles unless they have had at least 1 year or 15,000 miles of driving experience. I feel that this driving experience is detrimental to the survival of all motorcycle riders. You cannot shortcut this life lesson and in doing so, you would be unwisely taking a chance. Please spend at least 1 year on a car before considering a motorcycle. Bikes are not everyday vehicles. They should be avoided on windy, snowy, rainy days. They should be avoided when the roads are slippery due to sand, dirt, or gravel. You don't get air conditioning (A/C) on hot days. And finally, you cannot pick up 4 friends to go out for a night into town. If you are selecting your first vehicle, avoid a motorcycle for all the reasons stated above. As a 16 year old, you just do not have the self-control and common sense to ride a motorcycle safely.

By Melvin S. Tan

Auto repair shop true stories

This next customer had a common complaint of the a/c not blowing cold air. They took their Chevy cavalier into a local auto repair shop and asked for an estimate to repair the a/c. The auto repair shop provided a whopper of an estimate for replacing almost every component in the a/c system. The shop wanted to replace the a/c compressor and almost all of the parts that attached to the compressor.
The customer got me involved before any repairs were approved. After making some notes on what the vehicle owner was told I called the auto repair shop.
The service advisor notified me that the compressor had internal damage and spread metal through the system. This was believable and I have seen this happen before.
But I decided to ask a few questions before I recommended the owner approve the repairs.
I asked the service advisor what the pressure readings were on the high and low side. The advisor stated he would find out and call me back.
Two hours latter he called back and notified me that the system was empty and the freon had leaked out. The red flag went up.
When an a/c system is empty the compressor will not come on and testing is not possible.
The procedure would be to test charge the system and with the compressor running to properly diagnose the failure.
I asked the auto repair shop how they determined the compressor was bad and spread metal through the system without having run the compressor. He said he would call me back.
When he called back he stated that his technician was familiar with this make and model vehicle and that compressor failures are common on this type of vehicle.
At this point I called the customer and recommended to move the vehicle to another auto repair shop.
I informed the vehicle owner that this shop did no diagnosis and was planning on replacing all the parts and hoping the vehicle would be fixed.
The customer agreed and moved the vehicle to an a/c specialty auto repair shop.
I decided to tell this story because the results are funny to me. The a/c shop test charged the system and found a leaking evaporator.
This was the one part that the first shop left out of the estimate. The first shop would have replaced all of those good parts and left the one bad part remaining.
Why did they leave the evaporator out of the estimate? The reason is that the evaporator is hard to replace. The first shop was only interested in doing the easier repairs and hoping it would fix the problem.
Now the car is fixed and the owner avoided replacing $1500.00 of un needed a/c components.
Case study # 3
This next case was a problem with a 2002 Toyota corolla. Yes even Toyotas can have mechanical problems.
In this case the vehicle owner notified me that her engine was leaking oil and wanted to know if this would be covered under warranty.
The vehicle warranty was 3 years or 36,000 miles which ever came first. The customer had 36,125 miles on the vehicle, just over the warranty limit. I was surprised that the vehicle was having this problem because Toyotas are very well built.
I did some research and found out that the vehicle had brand new technology in the engine compartment. This vehicle had the first year for a new engine know as the vvti (variable valve timing).
I used all data to research TSB’s (technical service bulletins). The very first bulletin was about engine oil leaks from the front timing cover.
I called the customer and asked if the oil leak was from the right side of the vehicle. The customer put some cardboard under the vehicle and confirmed the next day that it was on the right side.
I faxed over a copy of the TSB and the owner took her vehicle to the Toyota dealer instead of an auto repair shop. The dealership performed the repairs under warranty even though it was technically out of warranty by miles.
As a side note the dealer has some lead way when it comes to warranty coverage. If the vehicle is out of warranty but close the dealer can still cover the repairs under a grace period clause provide by the manufacture.
The dealer can do this for customer satisfaction and brand loyalty reasons. Most dealers will not do this unless you ask.
If they refuse to offer you a slight grace period you can call the manufacture and explain that if they assist you, the next time you buy a car it will be their brand because of the support received.
Back to the Toyota story. The owner of the vehicle picked up the car and the oil leak was fixed.
The customer was looking at her receipt and the repairs did not match the repairs that I sent her in the TSB. I had her fax me a copy of the receipt.
The warranty paper work stated that the dealer replaced the cylinder head gasket and not the timing cover seal that had been updated by Toyota.
I called the dealer to find out why the receipt did not match the repair. I wanted to make sure that the redesigned timing cover seal was installed on this vehicle to avoid future problems.
The service advisor’s honesty surprised me.

He stated that the timing cover seal was replaced with the updated part number but they had charged Toyota to replace the head gasket because the head gasket operation paid more labor from Toyota.
So what this meant was the dealership was actually stealing from the factory.
When I went back to the customer and told her the story she asked me to drop it and not get the dealer in trouble because as far as she was concerned the car was fixed properly. The customer felt that looking out for Toyota was not her concern.
I agreed to drop it but I wanted to tell you the story. If the dealer cannot scam you they can still scam the factory. The dealerships lust for money knows no boundaries.
This is a good time to touch on warranty repairs and the relationship between the dealer and the manufacture.
I have worked at dealers that scammed the manufacture worse than they did the customers.
This affects all of us as in the manufacture takes these loses in account when pricing new vehicles and passes the cost on to the consumer at the point of sale on new vehicles.
I have worked for dealerships that pushed the manufacture to the point of the dealership being audited by the factory.
This process is very interesting and I wanted to share it with you.
When a dealership performs warranty repairs the factory requires the dealership to turn in the old parts for inspection.
Yes the manufacture uses the same techniques I recommended earlier in the verifying the repairs chapter.
The factory doesn’t trust the dealership either.
When the dealer’s warranty claims exceed what the factory considers normal an audit is performed.
The manufacture will send out a factory representative to review warranty claims and old parts.
The dealership is then responsible to pay any charge backs that the factory feels is necessary.
If the dealership refuses to pay, then the franchise is pulled and the dealer is out of the new car business.
I hope you found these auto repair shop stories entertaining.

by Mark Gittelman

Self Diagnose Your Car And The Check Engine Light

Even for the most mechanically inclined, determining exactly what is going on with your car behind the check engine light can be very complicated. Some people are willing to hunt out the problem through trial and error while others will be quick to drive their car to the mechanic to get the diagnostic test run and then take the car home to resolve the issue themselves. Either way, this can be a costly process. There has to be an easier way.

Why the Check Engine Light is On

No one likes to think of having to take a trip to the mechanic each and every time the check engine light comes on. In the last ten or so years, cars have been designed so that this light will come on for just about every problem imaginable, not just because the engine needs some type of repair. A problem as simple as the gas cap not being tightened enough last time you went to fill up your car can cause the light to go on. This makes the light almost impossible to decipher without the use of a computer device.

Car Error Codes

In your car's computer, all problems will register as a code. If you were able to extract these codes from your car's computer and decipher them for yourself, you will know what needs to be done to have your car running smoothly again. So why would you spend hundreds of dollars to find out what is wrong and then spend the money to fix it yourself when you can diagnose the problem yourself?

Codes Explain the Check Engine Light

These problem codes that register through the check engine light are the answer to all of the problems that could possibly occur with the car. Extracting these codes will tell you exactly what is going on with your car and you will be able to figure out what exactly needs to be fixed rather than swapping out part after part until the issue has been resolved. Not only can you cause more damage to your vehicle by swapping out parts but you will also spend unnecessary money on parts that it turns out you do not need.

Working as your own mechanic can definitely have its advantages. You will be able to save yourself the high cost of labor as well as the time that a mechanic might take. Many other people also use mechanics so if you need to use one, you will likely need to wait your turn, but it could be worth waiting to find out why the check engine light is on. When you do it yourself, you can work when you have the time.

by Andre Zayas

Your Air Filtration Tools Guide

The air filtration tools are really necessary when you are facing any respiratory problems. With this article you are sure to get all the information on air filtration tools.

The air filtration systems are used to clean air by removal of pollutants, dust, bacteria, pollen or simply anything that is floating through the air. it is possible to get clean air and so many health problems and diseases can be avoided with the help of air filtration. You get fresh air (disease and germ free) to breath in.

You will find lot many uses of these filtration systems in industries as well as households. To meet the various needs these filtration systems come in various models and materials. For ex. filtration systems are used in households, cars, aircrafts, industries, buildings ventilation systems, mechanical engines such as air compressors, gas compressors, diesel engines etc. The air filtration system can be found in various makes and models and simply changes with every use.

The home filtration unit or system works wonder in the house by cleaning the home air which minimizes the risk of possible allergies and other related problems due to the foreign particles. The filtration system is best judged by the material used in it, the CFM (air filtered at Cubic Feet per Minute) and other features.

It should be chosen keeping in mind the type of unit where you want to put that, the area size which will require pure air and the output CFM of the system. For industrial or commercial purposes more advanced and powerful filtration systems or a thick air filters compared to home version are used.

Compressed filtration systems are tools, which are used to remove water, oil, oil vapor, dirt, and other contaminants from a compressed air supply. This is very necessary for the compressed as it has a high percentage of air contamination due to microscopic foreign particles.

The commercial filtrations are used for large establishments such as a multistoried building or hospitals the amount of air pollutants present in the air is high and hence require larger air filters with thicker filters and larger CFM's. Such air filtration systems are very useful for cleansing large quantities of air with almost 95% cleaning.

In commercial many different filtration techniques such as HEPA air filters, electrostatic air filters, ionic air purifiers etc are used. One such popular technique, filtration technique is the dry scrubbing pas phase air media.

These media remove airborne gaseous contaminants via adsorption by capturing gaseous molecules and holding them to the media's surface and/or chemisorptions i.e. reacting with gaseous molecules and changing their chemical form to a nontoxic end product. This media is available as dry, spherical pellets for bulk fill of modules or secured in a pleated bi-component fiber filter.

Another filtration system is electrostatic filtration system used for household or commercial purpose and uses electrostatic and carbon filters to clean the air. It is most effective flirtation system to get relieved of pollutants and micro particles from the air.

The functioning of the electrostatic air filtration is different from the HEPA but is more effective in filtering the air clean. An electrostatic carbon filtration system also cleans tobacco smoke and other such odors and keeps your lungs healthy by giving clean air for breathing.

By David Urmann

Taking Care Of Your Car's Transmission

In order to maintain you car in a good shape, to offer you the safety as well the performances it was designed for in the first place, taking care of your vehicle's transmission is a vital thing you should take care of. Modern cars have very complex drive trains, and the transmission being one of the most important elements of it, repairing it because of the in-proper use can be very costly. The most serious operations on a car's drive train can only be executed in specialized shops, but the casual maintenance operations you can make them yourself.

The biggest enemy of the vehicle's transmission is heat. There are many causes for the heating of the transmission's elements, and many are related to operating your car under difficult conditions. Racing with your vehicle, towing a load, or repeatedly putting it in drive and reverse for exiting heavy snow or mud can contribute to the overheating of its ensembles.

If you often are forced to operate your car under these circumstances, you can benefit greatly from adding additional cooling to your transmission. Such a cooler will be mounted on the radiator and it will cool the transmission fluid. Because many SUV owners use them to tow heavy vehicles, they came equipped from the factory with such auxiliary transmission coolers.

In the following paragraph you will find a series of tips about properly maintaining your car's transmission. The most important aspect is to have your transmission fluid checked on a regular basis. Also check for its color. It should be red. If it had turned brown or it has a burnt smell should be changed at once. Before buying transmission fluid, check with your car's owner's manual to se the exact type the manufacturer recommends. Never mix two different types of fluid of fluids coming from different manufacturers. The recommended period to replace it is every 2 years or every 24,000 miles, which ever condition occurs first. When you want to put your car in reverse, come to a complete stop first. Changing from drive to reverse while the vehicle is still moving will harm your transmission. In order to protect vital transmission elements, put the cark into park after you have pressed the brake pedal and pull the emergency brake. By doing this, less stress is applied to the drive train. Always change gears from park to drive only when your engine is at idle.

When towing a very heavy load or when you are climbing abrupt terrain, be sure to disengage the overdrive feature, if your car is equipped with such a option, as it will prevent the car from repeatedly changing gears from and to overdrive. Overdrive is the highest gear in the transmission and it used to allow that vehicle to run at highway cruising speeds with a reduced revs, in order to mainly save fuel and reduce noise. If the automatic gear in your car has a 4-speed transmission with overdrive, the overdrive refers to the 4th gear. The same is with cars with 5-gear automated transmission with overdrive. There is the possibility to have a smaller car, with a 4 or 5 way automated transmission, but without the overdrive function.

By Dennis J James

5 Tips on Car Maintenance

When it comes to your car, it deserves nothing short of the best. Every car community expert will tell you that maintenance is one of the key things that will keep your car going for a long time to come. Here are some handy tips to help in the upkeep of your car.

1. Oil checking
Your car runs on oil and hence while you need to refill oil every now and then, you also need to make sure that the oil remains clean. Otherwise you risk spoiling the engine. Most car community experts will suggest that you change the oil on a regular basis to prevent the engine shards from getting mixed up with the oil. Make sure to keep a tab on leaks as having a leak can mean running without oil, which can be disastrous for the engine of your car! Ideally as every car community site will tell you, you need to change oil once in every 3 months and completely replace with brand new oil.

2. Tire pressure
The next thing you need to keep a close watch on is the tire pressure. Regular checks on tire air can help you save on costs associated with fuel expenses. As any car community expert will tell you, ideally you need to keep your tires filled and inflated, even if you feel they are not that squishy. You can easily procure a tire gauge yourself and keep checking on the air pressure. Even too much air can be bad so make sure to remove the excess also. You will also need to regularly keep a watch on tread wear on the tires.

3. Wiper blade
Usually wiper blades give way when you need them the most. That's why you need to regularly keep a close tab on them. Make sure to check if they're working fine, on a regular basis. Every car community site and expert says that this is most neglected part of the car and it is high time owners gave it more attention. By keeping them in good order you save yourself the trouble of being stranded in rain due to bad visibility!

4. Vacuuming
When you regularly vacuum your car you not only preserve its beauty but also pave the way for a good resale value later on. Every car community site will quickly tell you that regular vacuuming can take years off your car! If you are feeling a little lazy and don't want to do the vacuuming yourself just take it to a nearby vacuum station! You can use their vacuum machines by paying one or two quarters.

5. Washing underneath
Your car goes through a lot while you ride it. Right from mud, corrosive salty water to even snow - a lot gets accumulated on the underside of your car. This can erode at the vital mechanical parts on the bottom of your car, which is why every car community expert will advise you to give it a wash regularly.

By Thomas Clakins